Tuesday, June 30, 2009

John Galliano Spring/Summer 2010

For those followers of the blog, you may know that I don't have much patience for those avante-garde designers that are really "out there". I suppose the designers fashion themselves as "artistes" and are trying to make some visionary artistic statement by pushing the boundaries of conventional sartorial norms. Despite the (perhaps acknowledged) impracticality of their designs, the clothes allegedly nonetheless serve some other social function.

Personally, when I assess a fashion show, I ask myself what would I think of that person if he strode down the street or into a nightclub wearing that outfit. Maybe that's the wrong question (from the designer's perspective) , but that's just what I think.

For that reason I never quite got the strangeness by labels as Comme Des Garcons or the strangeness that Thom Browne consistently delivers.

Commes Des Garcons, Spring/Summer 2010

Thom Browne for Moncler Gamme Bleu, Spring 2010

By that rationale, you'd expect me to hate John Galliano. Wrong.

For some reason, I "get" Galliano. If you strip away the theatrical element from his fashion shows, and isolate the clothing piece by piece, most of the items are pretty cool. But I also think that the crazy models themselves look pretty wicked even as they are (though there are always ultra-ridiculous exceptions). This season was no different. I liked the way the models were wrapped with various items around their waist, be they belts, shirts or other un-identifiable clothing. It actually created the illusion of smart tailoring and it was clever effect.

In my opinion, there are very few designers who can touch Galliano.

-The Scandal

All images, from style.com, Marcio Madeira

-The Scandal

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Z Zegna, Men's Spring Summer 2010

This show was one of my favorite from Milan this season. It had a very dressy quality to it. A lot of the models were wearing spats and top hats. I actually bought a pair of spats online a couple years ago. Not sure what that says about me, but don't worry, I'll never get a top hat.

Anyways, I liked the way the single-button shawl collar tuxedo style suits were dressed down to give a more casual effect (think Adam Levine from Maroon V).

Moschino Spring summer 2010

I find Moschino to be one of the most whimsical brands out there. It's really too bad that the brand doesn't have much penetration in North America. We could reallyuse more. I think I've said in another posting that Simon's in Montreal carries their collection. I also believe that the boutique "Gabanna" in the Yorkville area in Toronto also carries a small collection.

-The Scandal

-The Scandal

Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer Men's 2010

The name of the head designer is Massimiliano Giornetti. What great name. And a pretty good designer too. I'm partial to the retro gangster element in this collection.

p.s. check out those 2-button double-breasted suits that are really popular in the spring/summer 2010 collections.

All photos from style.com, Marcio Madeira

-The Scandal

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2010

I think the LV men's collection has improved a lot since Paul Hebers took over from Marc Jacobs as head designer.

LV is the only brand that I'm aware of that never goes on sale, as a matter of policy. Personally, I've never wanted anything of theirs enough so that I was wiling to pay full price.

-The Scandal

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2010

The Armani "motocycle" jackets shown below are so cool. The cut is really unconventional and modern but I think they are still really classy. I'd really love to get my hands on one of them. I also love the weave in the two of the jackets. Ok, enough gushing for now.

All images from style.com, Marcio Madeira
-The Scandal

D and G Spring/Summer 2010

What do you get when you mix dusty shades of denim, leather and acid washed jeans? Why the 2010 Spring/Summer D& G show of course. I always liked D&G slim fitting shirts and denim. I also give the label points for using dusty brown shades which nobody else seems to be doing.

All images from style.com, Marcio Madeira

-The Scandal

Etro Spring/Summer 2010

I like dressing in colour more than most people, but the Etro show was wildly psychedelic-- not that I'm complaining. I think a good way to put colour to use is to ration it out in small but spectacular doses. Check out the guy in the jeans below. I love the way the belt, armband, bracelet and shoes just jump out of the outfit.
Also, check out the wierd-but-cute pirate/skull tee on the guy with the crazy jacket.

- The Scandal

Prada Spring/Summer 2010

Meh, I've always thought Miuccia Prada to be of the most overrated designers (at least with respect to the men's collection). I've never really cared for the label, with the exception of the shoes and briefcases.

Most of the men's shows are very forgetful with the exception of a few wierd gimmicks that are the designer's transparent attempt to scream "I am an artist".

Recent gimmicks include:

-"double collars"

-some wierd triangular/loin cloth/cumberbund

This season was forgetful, as usual. Anemic models wearing grey.

I did kinda enjoy the two-buttoned double-breasted blazer. The double-breasted blazer certainly seems to be making a comeback this season in Milan.

I also particularly like the sleek look that a two-button double-breasted jacket presents. The very first time I saw it was in *Valentino show in 2006. I liked it so much, that I had my tailor make me two suits with the pattern before the Valentino collection was in stores :)

*Valentino, two button, double-breasted suit from 2006:

-The Scandal

Versace Spring/Summer 2010

"Now it's all about Versace
You copied my style
Five shots couldn't drop me
I took it and smiled"

(from Tupac Shakur's "Hit em up")

Ahhh, the good ol' day of rap wars from the 1990's.

Tupac v. Biggie.

If Louis Vuitton clothes and Cristal champagne were the favoured hip-hop accoutrements in the 2000's, in the 1990's, it was all about Versace.

Tupac Shakur in Versace

In its heyday in the 1990's, Versace's trade-mark gawdy, baroque, golden patterns, pastel coloured suits and Medusa logo were all the rage.

But nothing was more expressive than a Versace silk shirt.

I guess the brand catered to people's inner Louis XIV. I proudly owned a few ties that I bought as a student in the mid/late 1990's.

Unfortunately, Gianni Versace was murdered in 1997, and the brand has never fully recovered under the guidance of his sister Donatella. For the past 5 years, if not more, men's clothing has for the most part shunned flashy colours and baroque prints in favour of more minimalist designs, and either basic patterns or monotones.

The Versace store on Sherbrooke street in Montreal closed a few years after Versace was killed. Same with the lower-label Versace store (Versus) on Bloor street in Toronto;

With a few exceptions, whenever I've seen Versus or Versace merchandise in men's stores, I've always wondered who was buying it. It always seemed so tacky that it could only appeal to the guys from "A Night at the Roxbury."

However, there may be signs of life. I can only say good things about the 2010 Spring/Summer collection. There was a really cool South-Beach vibe to the clothes, and for once the label didn't fetishize colour combinations of black, cobalt blue and burgundy (which it often seems to do).

All photos from style.com, Mario Mardeira

-The Scandal

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2010

The latest Bottega Veneta offering was wildly eclectic. There were preppy varsity jackets, trousers and suits with loud print patterns, bright pink/orange and pastel colours and handsome double breasted jackets with wide-peaked lapels* and roped shoulders**.

All Images from Style.com, Mario Maderia

*Wide peaked lapel

The wide-peak lapel has a v-shape where the lower portion of the lapel extends past the collar area. Compare with notched-lapel, lower image.

**Roped shoulders.
This is an extreme roped shoulder; Note how the sleeve area extends up above the shoulder.

-The Scandal