DSquared - Spring/Summer 2011

Overview: Dean and Dan will give Tom Ford a run for his money with these retro-inspired , uber-dashing looks. Though the collection looks great, I have the strange feeling that I've seen these looks before (80's-style tie bars from Gucci and Ralph Lauren, preppy suit/tie ensembles from Michael Bastian, and flared hems from YSL Rice gauche). Well, if they've borrowed, they've done so from the right people and the results are very, very good.

p.s. DSquared's trade-mark i-just-shat-my-pants low hanging jeans were replaced at the other extreme with high waisted "mom-jeans".

Rating: ***


Highlights: retro 70's 80's silouhettes

Lowlights: Mom jeans

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Dolce & Gabbana - Spring/Summer 2011 (Mens)

Overview:  This collection was a definite change in direction for Dolce. Their shows usually feature armies of smartly dressed tuxedos alongside guys in snug fitting casual and gym wear. Instead, this collection showcased light shades and loose fitting fabrics, gently tied at the waist. Who's up for sipping afternoon drinks at Stefano's Malibu beach house?

Rating: **


Highlights: loose cotton pants, motorcycle jackets
 
 

 
 
Lowlights: formless suits with skinny ties, tightie-whities.
 
 

 
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Dior Homme Spring/summer 2010

I haven't been terribly impressed with Dior Homme under Kris Van Assche.
I didn't particularly care for the latest fashion show either. Can somebody tell me why there's so much black in a spring/summer collection anyways? There were a lot of loose fitting, sheer and slightly over-sized garments. I've assembled my favorite pieces below. I also found the show t be quite similar to Kris Van Assche's own eponymous label.

From the Kriss Von Assche.

All images from style.com, Marcio Madeira

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Alexander McQueen, Spring/Summer 2010

This was a bit of an odd show. Alexander McQueen didn't hold a runway show, but rather featured the pieces in a showroom, which a bit surprising for a designer known for his showmanship.

The collection was also a bit scattered. There were was a bit of 20's -30's retro element to some of the more formal clothing. There were also shirts, jackets and pants with all kinds of strange patterns, prints and designs. It's hard to know what was running through his mind. Some of it worked, some of it didn't.

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John Galliano Spring/Summer 2010

For those followers of the blog, you may know that I don't have much patience for those avante-garde designers that are really "out there". I suppose the designers fashion themselves as "artistes" and are trying to make some visionary artistic statement by pushing the boundaries of conventional sartorial norms. Despite the (perhaps acknowledged) impracticality of their designs, the clothes allegedly nonetheless serve some other social function.

Personally, when I assess a fashion show, I ask myself what would I think of that person if he strode down the street or into a nightclub wearing that outfit. Maybe that's the wrong question (from the designer's perspective) , but that's just what I think.

For that reason I never quite got the strangeness by labels as Comme Des Garcons or the strangeness that Thom Browne consistently delivers.




Commes Des Garcons, Spring/Summer 2010

Thom Browne for Moncler Gamme Bleu, Spring 2010

By that rationale, you'd expect me to hate John Galliano. Wrong.

For some reason, I "get" Galliano. If you strip away the theatrical element from his fashion shows, and isolate the clothing piece by piece, most of the items are pretty cool. But I also think that the crazy models themselves look pretty wicked even as they are (though there are always ultra-ridiculous exceptions). This season was no different. I liked the way the models were wrapped with various items around their waist, be they belts, shirts or other un-identifiable clothing. It actually created the illusion of smart tailoring and it was clever effect.

In my opinion, there are very few designers who can touch Galliano.

-The Scandal

All images, from style.com, Marcio Madeira

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Z Zegna, Men's Spring Summer 2010

This show was one of my favorite from Milan this season. It had a very dressy quality to it. A lot of the models were wearing spats and top hats. I actually bought a pair of spats online a couple years ago. Not sure what that says about me, but don't worry, I'll never get a top hat.

Anyways, I liked the way the single-button shawl collar tuxedo style suits were dressed down to give a more casual effect (think Adam Levine from Maroon V).

Moschino Spring summer 2010

I find Moschino to be one of the most whimsical brands out there. It's really too bad that the brand doesn't have much penetration in North America. We could reallyuse more. I think I've said in another posting that Simon's in Montreal carries their collection. I also believe that the boutique "Gabanna" in the Yorkville area in Toronto also carries a small collection.

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Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer Men's 2010

The name of the head designer is Massimiliano Giornetti. What great name. And a pretty good designer too. I'm partial to the retro gangster element in this collection.

p.s. check out those 2-button double-breasted suits that are really popular in the spring/summer 2010 collections.


All photos from style.com, Marcio Madeira

-The Scandal

Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2010

The Armani "motocycle" jackets shown below are so cool. The cut is really unconventional and modern but I think they are still really classy. I'd really love to get my hands on one of them. I also love the weave in the two of the jackets. Ok, enough gushing for now.

All images from style.com, Marcio Madeira

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D and G Spring/Summer 2010

What do you get when you mix dusty shades of denim, leather and acid washed jeans? Why the 2010 Spring/Summer D& G show of course. I always liked D&G slim fitting shirts and denim. I also give the label points for using dusty brown shades which nobody else seems to be doing.

All images from style.com, Marcio Madeira

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Etro Spring/Summer 2010

I like dressing in colour more than most people, but the Etro show was wildly psychedelic-- not that I'm complaining. I think a good way to put colour to use is to ration it out in small but spectacular doses. Check out the guy in the jeans below. I love the way the belt, armband, bracelet and shoes just jump out of the outfit.
Also, check out the wierd-but-cute pirate/skull tee on the guy with the crazy jacket.

- The Scandal

Prada Spring/Summer 2010

Meh, I've always thought Miuccia Prada to be of the most overrated designers (at least with respect to the men's collection). I've never really cared for the label, with the exception of the shoes and briefcases.


Most of the men's shows are very forgetful with the exception of a few wierd gimmicks that are the designer's transparent attempt to scream "I am an artist".

Recent gimmicks include:

-"double collars"



-some wierd triangular/loin cloth/cumberbund

This season was forgetful, as usual. Anemic models wearing grey.

I did kinda enjoy the two-buttoned double-breasted blazer. The double-breasted blazer certainly seems to be making a comeback this season in Milan.

I also particularly like the sleek look that a two-button double-breasted jacket presents. The very first time I saw it was in *Valentino show in 2006. I liked it so much, that I had my tailor make me two suits with the pattern before the Valentino collection was in stores :)

*Valentino, two button, double-breasted suit from 2006:

-The Scandal