Simon Spurr 2011 Spring Summer

Simon Spurr has to be my favorite American-based designer. In his latest collection he seamlessly managed to combine old world Saville Row dandiness with the sleekness and simplicity of some modern designers such as Italo Zuchelli, of Calvin Klein. I am also impressed that he doesn't feel the need to embellish his shows with absurd gimmicky pieces to establish his cred as an "artiste". Are you listening Thom Browne? Didn't think so.

(All images GQ.com)

-The Scandal

Erdem RTW 2010 Fall Collection

Although I cannot say this is my favorite collection by Erdem, it nonetheless deserves an honourable mention.

Erdem Moralioglu was born near Montreal, Canada to a Turkish father and an English mother. He studied at Ryerson University in Toronto and eventually scored an internship with Vivienne Westwood in London where he proceeded to earn a masters degree in women's wear at the Royal College of Art. After winning a few prestigious awards, Erdem was able to establish himself as the most promising new designer among the London clique. 

The palette for his RTW 2010 Fall collection is very colorful. Known for his floral English-like prints, he decided to use many shades of green, dark red, blue, brown, and grey-  to give an illusion of a warm- flowery autumn palette. 

-Mariya

Fashion music: Harajuku girls and Taco

I don't think there's any trend here, but this is my second consecutive post on music and fashion.
I was listening to my ipod and coincidentally, two fashion-themed  songs came up on my playlist consecutively.
The first song was Gwen Stefani's "Harajuku girls".


The song is essentially a tribute to the girls of the Harajuku district in Tokyo.  The area is renown for its unique and eccentric street fashion.


Harajuku also has a large shopping district that includes luxury western designers, Japanese Harajuku native designers, and affordable shops catering to teens.

Gwen Stefani also made Harajuku girls a running theme for her first solo album L.A.M.B.

Japanese girls appear  in just about all the videos released  from the album ("What you waiting for", "Rich girl", "Hollbackgirl") and live shows. Also, in promoting the album, Gwen would show up to interviews with the girls in the background and none of them would utter a word. Gwen would claim not to be able to see the girls.
Because of her use of the Japanese girls,  she attracted some criticism, mainly charges of cultural exploitation. This seems a bit silly to me. I bet most Japanese took the whole Harajuku shtick as a flattering tribute. After all, how many Western artists of her stature prominently feature Japanese themes?
Anyways, if you're fashionista, you'll appreciate that the song name-drops Yohji Yamamoto, the Japanese label Comme des Garcons, and Vivienne Westwood, among others. It also contains a shameless self promotion for her then fledgling brand L.A.M.B:
"Did you see your inspiration in my latest collection?
Just wait 'til you get your little hands on L.A.M.B."

I suppose the song is catchy, but it does contain some pretty awful lyrics:

• "Where the catwalk got its claws, all you fashion know-it-alls"
• "You're looking so distinctive like D.N.A., like nothing I've ever seen in the U.S.A"
• "A Ping-Pong match between eastern and western"

Puttin' on the Ritz

The other song was an old one-hit wonder from the early 80's, called "Puttin' on the Ritz", by Taco.



The original song was written  in 1929 by Irving Berlin in the musical film Puttin' on the Ritz (1930). The original version was actually about black people dressing to the nines in Harlem. It probably stems from the songwriter's familiarity and encounters with black culture (likely from jazz bars). I suppose it wouldn't be considered politically correct by today's standards, but if anything, I think it too is a tribute to the culture.
The lyrics were slightly revised (likely to have a more whitebread appeal) and performed in several movies. It's all about the pretense of dressing Ritzy. I love this dance number by Fred Astaire performing the song. You should watch this clip-- the guy is badass.



The video makes me enjoy the song even more.
I don't care much for the Taco video but I've always found their version to be catchy. The lyrics are also really fun and clever.  I can't think of any better song with which to provide inspiration if you're dressing up for a big event.


-The Scandal

Slouchy Grouchie

I have a new pet peeve that's been festering inside me for a while. I need to get it off my chest. It's the male "slouchy hat". The hat has been popularized by celebrities such as Brad Pitt

and Colin Farell

 Why the trend? I think it reflects an attempt by guys to offset a metrosexual image by giving off an earthy, hippy vibe.

 A similar effect can be achieved by growing a beard, but I suppose the slouchy is a bit easier to maintain,

-The Scandal

Top 10 Worst of Milan/Paris Men's 2011 Spring/Summer

1. Agnes B

Here's an idea for a stupid look: Take uber-douche, Kid Rock

and add Fred Flinstone's tie

and put it together:

Brilliant.


2. Commes des garcons


Are those aliens? skulls? Does it really matter when these guys are wearing freakin' dresses?

3.  Givenchy

More disturbing arithmetic:

+

+ 

=

4. Thom Browne
I'm glad somebody peed on their heads:

5.  Rick Owens

Inspired by  a windsock?

6. Rick Owens


Waders as fashion inspiration?

These monstrosities should be cast back in the sea (Zing!)

7. Jean-Paul Gauthier

More troubling arithmetic:

+

+

=

8. Yves St. Laurent

Who wears short shorts?

I wear short shorts, and I tuck em high,  "mom jeans" style

9. Prada


I was hoping I would never see anything like this again:

but alas:

10. Raf Simons


Cue circus music....

Dishonourable mentions:

A. John Galliano

The mustache says Chaplin AND Hitler at the same time

B. Commes des Garcons


or as I call the brand, "Commes des idiots"

C. Alexander McQueen 

D. Etro

Looks like someone spirographed all over that suit and shirt

E. Givenchy


Leopard prints Elizabethan tights and tunics? If the question is to be or not to be, I wish this is never to be.

F. Rick Owens


Female priests and now...male nuns?

Also, if you're gonna wear a wet suit, make sure it isn't two sizes too big.

G. Raf Simons


Please tell me he's wearing underwear underneath his kilt...

-The Scandal