Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Ports 1961 Mens Fall/Winter 2012

Growing up in the 1980's, I remember my father sporting Ports International neckties. I  associated the brand with subdued, if somewhat stylish conservatism akin to say, Brooks Brothers.

I have since learned that after disappearing in the North American market for a decade or two, this brand with Canadian roots has since christened itself as "Ports 1961", and re-booted itself as a fashion forward force to be reckoned with. I must say that  I am very impressed with results.

Designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton have done a nice job in marrying Saville Row chic with modernist tailoring that you might find with the likes of Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada. It is my favourite Milan show to date this season.



Full show.











All images copyrighted to style.com

-The Scandal

Trussardi 1911 Men's Fall/Winter 2012

Tom Ford has long idealised 70's high style in all its glammed up glory. Gucci has never really abandoned that sentiment either. Though it was by no mean subtle, men's style in the 70's was more than just Boogie Nights leisure suits.  So here is the latest Trussardi show essentially saying the same thing, except designer Umit Benan couldn't resist resorting to those very same clichés.

Full Show.








All images copyrighted to Style.com


-The Scandal

Emporio Armani Men's Fall/Winter 2012

I didn't care much for the (unshown) ankle length coats that seem to be pervasive on the runway this season, but I did like the way Georgio managed to layer his boys in a tactile, billowy combination of wool, leather and velvet.

Full collection. 





All images copyrighted to GQ.com


-The Scandal

Ermenegildo Zegna Men's Fall/Winter 2012

This show may have looked more British than Italian (cutaway collars, corduroy suits)  but  was unquestionably quite dashing.

I've never seen (tassled?) ankle boots like the ones I've included below, but I definitely wouldn't mind a pair.

Full collection.








Any chance we'll eventually see this tux-sweater at the Oscars?



                                         All images copyrighted to GQ.com


-The Scandal

Corneliani Men's Fall/Winter 2012

Brands like Zegna, Canali and Corneliani define the classic Italian gentleman, as clichéd as that sounds.
This collection nicely demonstrates how a perfectly cut wool wool sweater can be made to look just as elegant as suit jacket.
I also like the pairing of the dress pants with the more casual ankle boots-- some of them wool, I believe.

Full collection. 






All images copyrighted to GQ.com

-The Scandal

Burberry Prorsum Men's Fall/winter 2012

In a season where most designers were content to present too-wide roomy coats, Christopher Bailey kept things sensible by resorting in some instances to smart tailoring and in others, to quirky details such as metal studded gloves and attaches cases.

Full show.












All images copyrighted to GQ.com

-The Scandal

Monday, January 2, 2012

I roll my eyes back and forth

A couple of years ago, SNL used to have a running sketch spoofing child actress Dakota Fanning. The premise of the skit was essentially that the precocious tween star was a pretentious and annoying brat, ignorant of the saccharine pop culture to which every other American girl her age was well familiar. Instead, the (then) 12 year old highbrow Dakota was more at home discussing Japanese fiction, ethnic violence in Central Africa, Icelandic cinema and so forth.

It is irritating when any Hollywood star expounds on their political consciousness, but when a 12 year old does it, it is all the more absurd-- hence the humour in the skit.

The Lady Gaga phenomenon has produced several unfortunate pop cultural by-products, including the inevitable parade of copycats. LGG has become synonymous with extremely flamboyant, arty and ultimately unpredictably wacky costumes that always manage to grab front-page attention. Not surprisingly, the other pop divas of the day have tried to get in on the action with absurd costumes of their own.



It's all getting a bit ridiculous. But it gets worse.

For the past several years, the 11 year old daughter of Will Smith and Jada Pinkett, Willow,  has been prancing around  in Lady Gaga-esque outfits.








Willow (who has several pop music singles to her name)  is an obvious creation of over-ambitious parents who have attempted to ride the Gaga train by directing that she be mauled by Hollywood stylists, who have turned her into a circus clown.

But my issue runs deeper. The outfits she sports --as silly as they may be--involve a level of social, artistic and cultural expression that a 9, 10 or 11 year old girl is simply unable to express. As a result, her clothing is ever more absurd, and age inappropriate.

I don't find her any more charming (or " fierce" as she likes to be described) than I would, say, a 10 year old boy wearing combat boots, vintage Atari t-shirt, sleeve tattoo, and a handlebar moustache.

In the same way, songs like Nirvana's "Smell like Teen Spirit" or say, Alanis Morisette's "You Outta Know" would have made no sense, and would have been ultimately obnoxious, if they were the products of 11 year old children. But of course they were not, and could not have been. Those art-forms required a level of complexity and depth of experience that is simply (and thankfully) not known by children.

To me, Willow is just one level above the pre-school pageants you see on the TLC show "Toddlers and Tiaras".

-The Scandal