Friday, January 15, 2010

Top 5 Best Trends in Men's Fashion from the 2000's

Trends and fads are by their nature ephemeral. They come and go-- some of them very quickly.

When it comes to clothing fads, some people wholeheartedly embrace them. To them, fashion  by its very nature is no more than  a series of constantly evolving trends. To be fashionable, is by definition, to be current with the latest fad.

There is also a school of thought that opposes the wholesale adoption of trends.  This group essentially believes that there are certain tried-and-true, “timeless” and classic looks that inherently look good. To them, the trendy fashionista is more concerned about appearing hip and current than he is about the actual appearance of the clothing itself.

My own sympathies lie with the latter approach. While I think clothing fads and trends offer an advantage of disrupting monotony,  they can often lead to absurd results when taken too far. If you slavishly follow fads, you will come across as no better than a style-lemming; and if clothing is supposed to express individual artistic style, then there can be no greater offence than this.


That’s why in retrospect, rock stars often look so ridiculous, as they are the most caught up in adopting the latest fads. When fads lose their currency, the tide comes in, and their absurdity is even more apparent.




Anyways, with that in mind, here are my selection for the best fads and trends of the ‘00 decade:


1. Three-piece suits

Prior to this decade, three-piece suits were considered to give off an old musty, stuffy, Victorian look. There  also appears to have been a tacky resurgence of three-piece in the 1970’s, but again, there was nothing youthful about them.



All of that changed this decade. With young professionals returning to old-school tailoring, there was an interest in these dapper outfits.



Tom Ford

Ralph Lauren
Justin Timberlake was one of the most reknown celebrity propagators of this look, often prancing around in a 3-piece suit (and canvas running shoes).


Ryan Seacrest is another example of a young celebrity comfortable in a 3-piece suit.



Another advantage of the 3-piece suit is that you can remove the jacket, and the vest will still give you a dressy look.



2. Double breasted suits

Considered awful boxy, relics from the 1980’s, up until a few years ago, it’s hard to over-estimate how un-cool these suits were regarded. In fact, when SNL used to parody Alex Trebek, they always dressed Will Ferrell in some god awful double breasted suit.




Aside from David Letterman (and those people who were wearing suits over 10 years old), nobody wore  double breated suits in the late 90's and early part of this decade.




I first noticed a comeback in double breasted suits in the Fall/Winter 2007 Valentino show. But this wasn’t your uncle’s double breasted suit. The Valentino version offered a slim, modern, two-button re-design and it looked very smart.





Suddenly by the end of the decade, just about every Paris and Milan and fashion house was designing double breasted suits, often with a modern twist.



Ralph Lauren
Botega Veneta
Prada

Z Zegna


3. Formal and casual wear cross-breeding


During the middle part of the decade, it became quite fashionable to mix up formal wear with casual attire. It was not uncommon to see guys wearing tuxedo jackets, pants and shirts (not to mention suspenders, bow ties and even velvet or patent leather shoes).


Costume National

DSquared



Undoubtedly, some of the chief designers propelling this trend were Canadians Dean and Dan from DSquared.




4. Designer Jeans

Though commonplace now, going back 10 years, it’s hard to fathom guys willing to wear jeans made in Italy (or Japan), let alone shelling out well over $250 per pair.

Though there was a designer jeans craze in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s, the fad was limited to womenswear. It never seeped into men’s wardrobes.



Up until this past decade, denim was hardly a fashion statement for men. You couldn’t get into a swanky place with a pair of jeans anymore than you could wearing a baseball hat. But by early/mid decade this all changed. Jeans--notably, distressed jeans-- had clearly become an acceptable “dressy” item of clothing for either sex. “Has-been” nightclubs were readily identifiable precisely because they had a “no jeans” policy (as a relic from the 1990’s).





Copyright: The Sartorialist



I waffled on whether to include designer jeans in my Top 5 list, primarily for two reasons: Firstly, I think that designer jeans had quickly become the de facto uniform of the douchebag. Secondly,  the widespread acceptability of denim ultimately robbed men of a lot of their imagination. In the 2000's, a lot of guys put on jeans and simply never took them off. There is more to men's fashion than just jeans (yes, even on casual Fridays).


5. Tailoring

Following  the decline of the bulky three-buttoned suits from the 90's (still favoured by American football sportcasters)



a lot of designers returned to a more a tailored British look that emphasized a man's silouhette. This look is achieved, in part  by tapering the jacket at the waist, and higher armholes. In fact, the next time you go to a nice men's shop, you'll notice that the suits on the mannequins are usually pinned up in order to give a more tailored look. (Query why the suit isn't manufactured that way in the first place?)  A slimmer jacket usually (but not always) is paired with slim-fitting pants.  In my opinion, a fitted suit, especially on a reasonably in-shape guy is most flattering. 



Dolce & Gabbana

 

Michael Bastian

Dolce & Gabbana

The slim fit wasn't restricted to suits. It was extended to shirts, trousers and sweaters.
Ralph Lauren

Dolce & Gabbana


Note: If you're interested, here are links to my posts on the (1) worst trends of the 2000's; (2) most ambivalent trends of the 2000's and (3) most influential designers of the of the 2000's.

-The Scandal

Monday, January 4, 2010

Top 5 Worst men's fashion trends of the 2000's

This is my list of the top 5 Worst men's fashion trends of the 2000's. There are also other posts in this blog to the best trends of the 2000's, most ambivalent trends of the 2000's and most influential designers of the 2000's.


Top 5 Worst men's fashion trends of the 2000's:


1. The "clubbing" shirt
Trend Origin: Vegas nightclubs, 2001
Trend Peak: Miami nightclubs, 2003
Still worn by: Guys who go to nightclubs where collars are mandatory
The first problem with this concept is that it implies an article clothing designated for a particular occasion. Would you wear "Birthday pants"? How about a "brunchtime vest" or a "movie sweater"?

The shirt on its own wouldn't be so bad if not for the fact that it is often:
-some predictable pattern of diagonal stripes


-worn un-tucked, with collar upturned (for full douche effect)

-worn by packs of guys who learned their nightclub etiquette from "A Night at the Roxbury"

p.s. wearing a blazer/jacket over the shirt does not make the shirt any less tasteless

2. Kaffiyeh




Trend Origin: London, 2006
Peak: Yonge and Dundas Square (Toronto) , 2008
Still worn by: Chris Brown


What better way to give off the radical, non-conformist, peace activist look by wearing an article of clothing worn by every hip 16 year-old on Queen street, and most famously associated with Yassir Arafat?


3. Trilby (short brimmed fedora)
Trend Origin: 2005, U.K, new-mod rockers
Peak: 2008, Williamsburg, NY hipsters
Still worn by: Maddox Jolie-Pitt
I could never stand these things for a bunch of reasons. First of all, since the brim is relatively small, they make the wearer's head look big.

Maybe it should be worn by guys with small heads?
Secondly, I never cared for the chief exponents of this look: Brat Pitt, Pete Dougherty, skinny mod rockers, Williamsburg hipsters, etc.


Bottom line: If you're going to wear a "classic" hat-- wear a fedora. Al Capone and co. didn't gain respect by wearing a Trilby.



p.s. Frank Sinatra looked good in a trilby only because he was Frank Sinatra

4. Gothic, skull and tattoo imagery
Trend Origin: L.A, 2002
Peak: Vegas, 2005-ish, launch of Don Ed Hardy
Still worn by: Jon Gosselin

I confess that I was originally taken in with skulls in the early days, but after a while this fad inevitably got tiresome, especially when a lot of the brands were co-marketed with mixed martial arts.


Ever try to elbow your way to the bar in any nightclub without bumping into 4 muscle-heads with tight-tees containing images of skulls, crosses and Gothic print? Also, what the hell is up with all those rhinestones?

5. Clubbing shoes?
Trend Origin: ??
Peak: Aldo shoe stores, 2006
Still worn by: 23 year old accounting students going for their first interview
Not sure what to call these things-- maybe "clubbing" shoes?


All I know is that I see them everywhere and I just don't like anything about them: square and upturned toe, synthetic soles, gaudy stitching, the list goes on...
They look cheap whether worn with jeans (bad) or with suits (worse).
Honourable mentions:
Trucker hats (2002-2006)


Livestrong bracelets (2004-2005)


P.s. isn't it amazing how many of these fads were taken up by K-Fed?




-The Scandal

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Models: Genetic Lottery Winners



I've always been fascinated with supermodels. Growing up in the 90's, my generation was exposed to the era of the "Supermodel" where out of this world, almost mutant-like women started to dominate ads and magazines. In the early 90's these women became famous for being beautiful and took the world by storm. Eventually the look from 90's evolved into heroin chic (my least fave era) and fashion designers opted to go for the anorexic-just-overdosed-half-alive look.

Lately, I've been asking myself what really defines a model? Does she have to be over 5'9" to make it in the industry and does she have to be super skinny? The answers can be very ambiguous and discussing this topic with a few friends, I've come to the conclusion that everyone has their own perception of what is beautiful. Therefore, I've decided to compile my own short list of models that I've admired over the years. Here goes:

Cindy Crawford

When Cindy came on the scene in the late 80's and was one of the first women to establish herself as a brand, the world couldn't get enough of her, and neither could I. She was smart and sexy. She never dominated the catwalks but was more famous for her naked photos and her signature mole on her upper lip.




Claudia Schiffer

Spitting image of 1950's French movie start Bridget Bardot, Claudia Schiffer started out as a model for Guess clothing company. Discovered in a nightclub in her native Germany, she instantly became a recognizable face during the Supermodel era.




Gisele Bundchen

As an adolescent girl, I remember flipping through the latest issue of Vogue and stumbling upon a Ralph Lauren ad of a new face that I've never seen before -- it was Gisele Bundchen. I instantly became obsessed with her. I thought she was incredible. Her body was voluptuous, her legs seemed to go on forever, and her face was perfectly chiseled. I instantly wanted to be her.




Natalia Vodianova

Lastly, another fascinating model came on the scene a few years ago- Natalia Vodianova. Although she's not as famous as the rest of these models. I found her rags-to-riches story very endearing as well as her doll-like features.




Although some might not agree with my choice of models, I believe that they all have important attributes of what (I think) is beautiful, and that is height, great physical shape, legs, and face. In my opinion, a model has to have a sense of style, but essentially her role is to make clothes look great. And to make clothes look great everyone knows that it must start with a great body.

Models are not supposed to look like the average woman walking down the street. They are paid millions of dollars by virtue of having been blessed with inheriting the creme of the gene pool. These models (at least for me) epitomize what a model is, and should be, because they are far beyond average- they are simply gorgeous human beings.

-Mariya

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Sole man: Bettanin & Venturi

I know that lust is one of the 7 deadly sins. I also know that women are famously guilty of this sin when it comes to shoes. I have to come clean myself: there is a particular shoe brand that I lust after, Bettanin & Venturi. 

Not surprisingly, the brand comes from a small workshop in Italy. B & V is best known for their very distinctive welt, known as the "Norvegese", which is the cooler-sounding  Italian word for  "Norwegian".



I am guessing that the Norvegese welt is based upon some boot-style associated with Norway.

The appearance of the welt is so striking by virtue of the thick lace stitching and the fact that the sole juts out by at least a half inch. You are absolutely guaranteed to get noticed if you wear these badboys. 

The company does offer other styles of shoes (and welts), but they are primarily known for the Norvegese. 

Some of the styles are more subdued and classic. I like these styles the best, since there is no need to overdo it, given the striking appearance of the welt. 



The craftsmanship on the soles is amazing. That's something you just won't see with "Made in China".


There also a lot shoes dyed with unconventional colours. 


The company  manufactures a lot of custom-made pieces that are so downright tacky and gaudy that even your neighborhood pimp would blush.  

But to me, that is the quintessential nature of  grandiose Italian style, namely, beauty straddling ostentatiousness (just think  Lamborghini). You just have to find the right balance. 

I have seen the shoes for sale in Toronto at V Hazelton (in the Yorkville district). I also routinely see them being sold at Barney's in New York.  According to the company's website , they are available in Montreal at Maison 1455.  They're not cheap--they start at around $1,500 USD.

-The Scandal