StyleMounties

Men's Shoe Primer

2012-02-09T12:02:00.001-05:00

In one of the climactic scenes of the "The Shawshank Redemption", the main character, Andy, has the gall to strut around in the warden's buffed shoes on the eve of his secret and daring escape.
The narrator states: "The guard simply didn't notice. Neither did I. I mean, seriously, how often do you really look at a man's shoes?"

Great movie, but I do have to disagree with that last line. Any woman will tell you she almost always notices a man's shoes. Case in point: on a dress-down Friday, I once showed up to work eager to show off a gaudy but fancy new watch (that I couldn't afford). Waiting for the compliments to roll in, I remember one of my co-workers complimenting my shoes but completely ignoring the new watch. Lesson learned.

Now us men needn't obsess and fetishize shoes as the way many women do, but we should own a few nice pairs.

Here is on my own little primer on men's shoes:

Style
There are simply too many styles of men's shoes to list in this post, but the main broad categories are: laced, non-laced (moccasins/loafers/slip-ons) and ankle-high boots.

Although there are of course multiple factors, the most formal type of men's shoes are typically laced. Slip-ons such as loafers are slightly more casual but can definitely be coupled with a suit.

Ankle-high boots were once an absolute no-no with a suit, although that has changed in recent years, assuming you wear the right kind of boot. All other boots are still verboden. Wearing ankle-high boots with your suit definitely gives off a more informal vibe, so I would not wear them on your wedding day.

Some ankle-high boots can be worn with a suit

Usher shows just why you shouldn't wear combat boots with a suit.

Colour

The safest and most conservative business shoe tone is black, no question. Black shoes can be worn with almost most any suit pattern and tone, except white (although if you're a black-shoe-only guy, chances are you don't own a white suit anyway). Black is generally the best option for greys, especially Prince of Wales patterns.

Black shoes can be worn with almost any suit tone.

Brown is also a very safe choice. Some would argue that brown should be the default shoe tone, especially when paired with the unquestionably classic, navy business suit.

Brown shoes are the smartest choice to pair with a navy suit

Another shade that is also business-acceptable, but with perhaps a bit more oomph, is oxblood (or burgundy).

These suckers also go great with navy.

Tan shoes or light brown tones are also acceptable, although they will provide a starker contrast with conventional office suits, so be forewared, ye pencil-necked accountants.

There is a whole spectrum of tan-brown shoes, with many men's styles even having a bit of an orange tint to them.

The great thing about all of the tones mentioned above is that they can all be worn with jeans or khakis, the only exception being black shoes if they are too formal.

Just about any tone goes great with jeans.

Sole

My first rule for shoes, especially dress shoes, is that the sole be made of leather. Whenever I inspect a shoe, I immediately flip it over and give the sole a loud knock with my knuckles to assess the leather. I'm not quite sure what that accomplishes, but in my mind my knuckles can discern the "pop" of a genuine leather sole.

It's amazing that I haven't yet been kicked out of a shoe store. The composition of the sole usually even isn't a mystery as leather soles are often marked "vera pelle".

I also would go so far as to say that rubber soles aren't really appropriate for the office. In fact, with a few exceptions, I don't really care at all for shoes with a non-leather sole

Most "casual" shoes with a rubber sole are simply tacky. I know some men fear the formality of wearing leather-soled shoes with their jeans or khakis, but they really shouldn't, as a leather sole is almost always the more stylish choice.

These rubber-soled shoes shouldn't be worn in the office. They really shouldn't be worn at all.

I do make some exceptions of course, as I like to have a pair of casual, rubber-soled shoes to wear when it's wet outside or if I know that I'll be doing a lot of walking. As discussed further below, bucks and desert boots (or anything suede) spring to mind as good options, but overall, it is a bit challenging to find a stylish pair of shoes with a rubber sole.

Patterns

My own personal preference in shoe patterns is somewhat contradictory. On the other hand, I like sleek shoes that have minimal pieces of leather stitched together, yet on the other hand, I am also partial to shoes that have a bit of a brogue pattern (those decorative perforations sometimes called "wing tips").

I like sleek-looking shoes with few pieces of leather

Yet I also like these more intricate brogues...

However, I don't care for these these cap-toed Oxfords-- too much stitching.

Two-tones
Two-tone shoes (also sometimes called "spectator") make a definite statement and are bound to get you noticed. As such, they cannot practically be paired with a business suit. Black and white are the most common variety. Brown and white are popular too, but you can really find them in almost any colour combination.

Fabrics
Needless to say, more formal shoes should be made with a leather upper only. Don't dare wear vinyl unless you have the leisure suit to go with it. Exotic skins such as ostrich, snake and alligator, though pricey, are usually flamboyant and/or tacky.

Overall, there are only a few acceptable alternatives to a leather upper, and they are mostly niche items in high end fashion. For example, some shoes have a leather and canvas combination, or completely canvas, for a very casual summer look.

Canvas and leather combination shoe

In recent years, suede shoes have made a big comeback, especially the ankle-high variety sometimes called desert boots. In the 80's, desert boots came in just a few basic earth tones, but nowadays you can find them in all manner of colours.

Additionally, suede shoes and boots also come in brogue patterns, and have become one of the trendiest items in footwear over the past few years.

When I spoke above about exceptions to my leather-sole rule, I was mostly referring to suede boots and shoes. Suede moccasins have afforded men the opportunity to flash some quirky colours into their wardrobe. Green or purple oxford shoes would be extremely tricky to pull off, but somehow seem effortless as a suede moccasin.

Moccasins can add a nice splash of colour

Another good casual option are called bucks which are also usually suede and have a rubber sole and are currently very trendy, albeit with modern twists.

Toe Shape

Be mindful to avoid shapes that are overly trendy, especially the ones that are stocked in cheap shoe stores. Square toes became popular in the mid/late 90's, but there were some people who hated them then, and certainly today. There is a bit of a the Goldilocks phenomenon, namely in avoiding shoes that have toes that are too square, too round or too pointy.

Too round

Too pointy

Too Square

Too ????

Instead, try to find a classically shaped toe that more closely resembles the natural contour of the foot.

-The Scandal

Worst of Milan & Paris Men's Fall/Winter 2012

2012-01-23T16:14:00.001-05:00

1.Commes Des Garcons

That fat drunken fan at the game with the foam hat: style icon.

Here are some other masculine beauties:

2. Givenchy

A man-skirt isn't really manly unless you wear a bull nose ring.

3. Versace

If you like your tuxedo printed on a t-shirt, you'll love this silk outfit.

And in case you thought thermal underwear wasn't cool:

To be fair, I actually thought the full show was interesting.

4. Anne Demeulemeester

Weird arithmetic:

Oh, and here's a guy wearing a wool Snuggie:

5. Walter Van Beirendonck

This guy really masters the art of subtlety and understatement.

Full show.

6. Maison Martin Margiela

A newcomer to this list; Hey, are those garbage bag handles on the coat? They may come in handy when you toss this baby into the trash.

7. Damir Doma

Sonny Bono lives (sorta)!

8. Agnes B

Fashion ninjas or fashion scuba? Time to deep-six this look.

9. Rick Owens

R.O. was a lot more down-to-earth this year, but he still provided a couple of gems.

This guy is missing his astronaut helmet.

This guy looks like he's jumping around in a leather garbage bag.

10.Andre Pompilio

Is that a banana peel in his hand?

11. Phillip Lim and Jean Paul Gaultier

Just what the world needs: more man-skirts.

Here's the JPG version:

Gotta love JPG for once again trotting out his Conan O'Brien lookalike in this awful brick-pattern print:

12. Thom Browne

If you liked his collection for Moncler Gamme Bleu, you'll love his eponymous collection, previously posted.

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Thom Browne

Is that merkin really necessary?

All images copyrighted to Style.com and GQ.com

-The Scandal

Thom Browne Men's Fall/Winter 2012

2012-01-23T00:06:00.002-05:00

I really wanted to save the Thom Browne images for the "Worst Of" posts that I do at the conclusion of Milan and Paris fashion weeks. However, this latest show was so outrageous that it really deserves a post of its own.

Full collection.

-All images copyrighted to WWD.com

-The Scandal

L'insouciance

2012-01-22T11:57:00.001-05:00

If you're in a bit of a style rut and looking for inspiration, I highly recommend perusing the street style photographs of GQ's Tommy Ton, taken outside Pitti Uomo in Milan. Granted, most of us cannot pull off the creative flare and colourful flamboyance these guys exude, but we can definitely mine them for some ideas.

If there is only one idea that I think should be borrowed from these style maestros, I think it is their sense of insouciance--granted some of it affected. Notice how many buttons are undone, collars unevenly flipped, gloves tucked in pockets, etc. You never want to look too buttoned, too restrained or too perfect-- unless you're Mitt Romney.

All images copyrighted to GQ.com

-The Scandal

John Richmond, Fall/Winter 2012

2012-01-21T13:27:00.001-05:00

It's annoying when the fashion media consistently defaults to silly clichés when describing certain designers. For example, Alexander McQueen was the "bad boy", and in the case of John Richmond, he's the "Rock 'N' Roll" designer.

Epithets aside, I don't seem to encounter as John Richmond clothing in Canadian retails shops anymore. Here's what you're missing:

Full collection.

All images copyright to style.com

-The Scandal

Louis Vuitton, Men's Fall/Winter 2012

2012-01-21T13:07:00.002-05:00

I don't know how much that ski jacket will cost, but I will hazard a guess that it will be the most expensive ski jacket on the market.

Full collection.

All images copyrighted to GQ.com

-The Scandal

Ports 1961 Mens Fall/Winter 2012

2012-01-17T20:47:00.001-05:00

Growing up in the 1980's, I remember my father sporting Ports International neckties. I associated the brand with subdued, if somewhat stylish conservatism akin to say, Brooks Brothers.

I have since learned that after disappearing in the North American market for a decade or two, this brand with Canadian roots has since christened itself as "Ports 1961", and re-booted itself as a fashion forward force to be reckoned with. I must say that I am very impressed with results.

Designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton have done a nice job in marrying Saville Row chic with modernist tailoring that you might find with the likes of Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada. It is my favourite Milan show to date this season.

Full show.

All images copyrighted to style.com

-The Scandal

Trussardi 1911 Men's Fall/Winter 2012

2012-01-17T17:53:00.000-05:00

Tom Ford has long idealised 70's high style in all its glammed up glory. Gucci has never really abandoned that sentiment either. Though it was by no mean subtle, men's style in the 70's was more than just Boogie Nights leisure suits. So here is the latest Trussardi show essentially saying the same thing, except designer Umit Benan couldn't resist resorting to those very same clichés.

Full Show.

All images copyrighted to Style.com

-The Scandal

Emporio Armani Men's Fall/Winter 2012

2012-01-17T02:41:00.000-05:00

I didn't care much for the (unshown) ankle length coats that seem to be pervasive on the runway this season, but I did like the way Georgio managed to layer his boys in a tactile, billowy combination of wool, leather and velvet.

Full collection.

All images copyrighted to GQ.com

-The Scandal

Ermenegildo Zegna Men's Fall/Winter 2012

2012-01-17T02:31:00.000-05:00

This show may have looked more British than Italian (cutaway collars, corduroy suits) but was unquestionably quite dashing.

I've never seen (tassled?) ankle boots like the ones I've included below, but I definitely wouldn't mind a pair.

Full collection.

Any chance we'll eventually see this tux-sweater at the Oscars?

All images copyrighted to GQ.com

-The Scandal

Corneliani Men's Fall/Winter 2012

2012-01-17T02:12:00.000-05:00

Brands like Zegna, Canali and Corneliani define the classic Italian gentleman, as clichéd as that sounds.
This collection nicely demonstrates how a perfectly cut wool wool sweater can be made to look just as elegant as suit jacket.
I also like the pairing of the dress pants with the more casual ankle boots-- some of them wool, I believe.

Full collection.

All images copyrighted to GQ.com

-The Scandal

Burberry Prorsum Men's Fall/winter 2012

2012-01-17T01:55:00.000-05:00

In a season where most designers were content to present too-wide roomy coats, Christopher Bailey kept things sensible by resorting in some instances to smart tailoring and in others, to quirky details such as metal studded gloves and attaches cases.

Full show.

All images copyrighted to GQ.com

-The Scandal

I roll my eyes back and forth

2012-01-02T20:34:00.001-05:00

A couple of years ago, SNL used to have a running sketch spoofing child actress Dakota Fanning. The premise of the skit was essentially that the precocious tween star was a pretentious and annoying brat, ignorant of the saccharine pop culture to which every other American girl her age was well familiar. Instead, the (then) 12 year old highbrow Dakota was more at home discussing Japanese fiction, ethnic violence in Central Africa, Icelandic cinema and so forth.

It is irritating when any Hollywood star expounds on their political consciousness, but when a 12 year old does it, it is all the more absurd-- hence the humour in the skit.

The Lady Gaga phenomenon has produced several unfortunate pop cultural by-products, including the inevitable parade of copycats. LGG has become synonymous with extremely flamboyant, arty and ultimately unpredictably wacky costumes that always manage to grab front-page attention. Not surprisingly, the other pop divas of the day have tried to get in on the action with absurd costumes of their own.

It's all getting a bit ridiculous. But it gets worse.

For the past several years, the 11 year old daughter of Will Smith and Jada Pinkett, Willow, has been prancing around in Lady Gaga-esque outfits.

Willow (who has several pop music singles to her name) is an obvious creation of over-ambitious parents who have attempted to ride the Gaga train by directing that she be mauled by Hollywood stylists, who have turned her into a circus clown.

But my issue runs deeper. The outfits she sports --as silly as they may be--involve a level of social, artistic and cultural expression that a 9, 10 or 11 year old girl is simply unable to express. As a result, her clothing is ever more absurd, and age inappropriate.

I don't find her any more charming (or " fierce" as she likes to be described) than I would, say, a 10 year old boy wearing combat boots, vintage Atari t-shirt, sleeve tattoo, and a handlebar moustache.

In the same way, songs like Nirvana's "Smell like Teen Spirit" or say, Alanis Morisette's "You Outta Know" would have made no sense, and would have been ultimately obnoxious, if they were the products of 11 year old children. But of course they were not, and could not have been. Those art-forms required a level of complexity and depth of experience that is simply (and thankfully) not known by children.

To me, Willow is just one level above the pre-school pageants you see on the TLC show "Toddlers and Tiaras".

-The Scandal

Don't slouch it

2011-12-26T14:59:00.000-05:00

I've previously posted about my annoyance with slouchy hats. Sadly, they don't seem to be going away any time soon, whether they be worn by tween, Bieber-wannabes or older gents.

Perhaps the most annoying trend of this overly affected accessory is for it to be combined with formal wear such as a sports jacket or suit. Here is a recent photo of Jude Law sporting the look:

Of course, he's also grown the mandatory lumberjack beard to complete his carefully crafted bohemian image.

The attempted broadcasted message: "I am one part classy, dapper gentleman, and one part down-home earthy bloke, at one with the Occupy Movement".

During the last decade, some men would often dress down a suit with running shoes, and I could live with that. But I'm sorry--the only hat that can be worn with a suit is a fedora.

Let me codify this into the following fashion rule:

With a suit/blazer/sport jacket, no slouchy hats.

No baseball hats (unless it's draft day).

No Cowboy hats.

Newsboy caps are sometimes OK.

Lastly, if you wear a blazer, slouchy hat AND a scarf indoors, you truly are an overly affected tool. *Sorry*

-The Scandal

Shiny Happy Pants

2011-12-26T12:14:00.000-05:00

What better way to ring in the new year than with these crazy silver sequined Margiela pants?

-The Scandal

Nice pair, girl

2011-12-16T14:08:00.000-05:00

Noticed: a lot of stylish girls seem to be donning thick, black rimmed glasses. I most recently noticed Rashida Jones sporting a pair (not that I knew who she was).

I asked a girl I who saw wearing a pair whether she was a Buddy Holly fan, but she had never even heard of the legendary 50's rock n' roll star.

If you take up the trend, my only recommendation is that you be really, really good-looking in order to offset their inherent geekiness.

-The Scandal

Trash the 'stache

2011-12-15T11:57:00.000-05:00

So Canada's answer to JFK Jr.-- in other words, an undeserving and unaccomplished scion of political royalty-- Justin Trudeau (son of late Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau) has been in the news recently.
Justin hurled a "shi*" bomb towards a fellow parliamentary member, during one of the the notoriously unruly parliamentary sessions.

This blog couldn't care less about his remark or the insincere apology that followed. I was more alarmed by his appearance.

Yeah, I'm nonplussed about his sloppy attempt at a Windsor tieknot but I really to discuss his, ummm, beard?
The only way anyone should be wearing facial hair like that is if they have the rapier sword and loose-fitting blouse to match or if they really, really like Captain Morgan rum.

Why do some men grow silly facial hair? I suspect it arises out of boredom of one's appearance, which leads to an understandable desire to infuse it with some form of personal, aesthetic self-expression, however small. Not everyone is simply content with getting up and going to work every damn day and looking like every other drone.

That part, I get; I just think a better expressive outlet would be through one's clothing. After all, clothes do more than simply keep us warm and cover our naked bodies.

The problem is that many men don't have the wherewithal to change up their wardrobe, so they resort to offbeat facial hair or simply growing their hair. Women have it easier. They have a myriad of ways to shake things up: new nails, new hair colour, new hair style and so on. For a guy, the options are a lot more limited, especially if he lacks imagination with his wardrobe.

-The Scandal

The 7 Sons of Men's Fashion

2011-12-05T21:56:00.002-05:00

Do you enjoy people watching? Some people love nothing more than sitting at an outdoor cafe on a busy city street and watching the people go by.

In this post, I've made a list of seven of the main style categories of the modern North American man. Of course the list isn't perfect, but the next time you go people watching, why don't you see how many of the men fall into one of the following categories.

1. The Agnostic

The Agnostic only sees the utilitarian value of clothes. Essentially, they are means to protect his naked body against the elements. He really gives no second-- or even a first --thought to what he wears. For the most part, he blends into the crowd, although you may notice the socks underneath his sandals or the holes in his gym t-shirt. But he has no problem with that; if it fits, and keeps him either warm or cold enough, as the case may be, he'll wear it, thank you very much.

Representatives: Steve Jobs (and every other tech guy you've ever met); your dad; Jimmy Kimmel; Phil Collins; 85% of the North American male population

2. Mr. Tee

Unlike the Agnostic, Mr. Tee cares about his appearance, in fact with a zeal that is belied by his casual appearance. You see, given the choice, Mr. Tee will only wear a (fitted) T-shirt and jeans, but since his wardrobe selection is so limited, his fastidiousness about the fit of both items borders on OCD.

In fact, if he finds a t-shirt or pair of jeans he likes, it's not uncommon for him to buy multiple pairs. Diversity is not his trade-mark, but he is apt to accessorise with thumb-rings, wrist-bands, belt buckles, tattoos and almost certainly, his hair and chiselled pecs.

Whence the narrow-mindedness of his closet? Endemic to mainly North American guys, I suspect two reasons:
First, Mr. Tee views any conformity to sartorial norms dictated by occasion as the ultimate capitulation of his maverick spirit. Sure he's got one forlorn navy suit hanging in his closet, but that's only in case he has to go to a job interview or a funeral.
Second, these guys are usually fixated on youth culture and will whatever it takes to pass themselves off as being far younger as they really are, bro.

Representatives: The Sitch, Danny Bonaduce; Every MMA fighter; dudes with a suped-up Japanese imports; the "39 year old" guy at college-aged nightclubs

3. Runaway Runway

Those showcase pieces at runway shows that are intended as theatre aren't worn by regular joes. Except this breed isn't a regular guy. The whole world is his canvas, so be forewarned. He's also keen to roll off annoying platitudes such as "gender is just a construct", but considering he's liable to be wearing a man-skirt himself, maybe he's onto something. And for someone who complains so much about the 1%, he obsesses a bit too much over the $1,500 Gareth Pugh handbag that he so desires.

Representatives: Adam Lambert, Prince, Marc Jacobs (or any other dude in a skirt), guys at Fashion Week

4. Hipster aka Ironyman

The hispter has become all too ubiquitous and so well-described such that any satire here is likely overwrought. Essentially, the hipster's credo is irony. He wears a moustache, sports ironic tattoos and dresses like your father and/or your grandfather out of a pure sense of irony. Fiercely individual, he slavishly follows hipster conventions of the day, including of late, ankle high pants and of course, his beverage of choice (Pabst Blue Ribbon).

Representatives: Justin Timberlake (qua actor not rockstar), Dallas Green, the Black Keys, Fleet Foxes (and too many other indie bands to list); Terry Richardson, Dov Charney

5. Preppy Le Pew

The prep isn't seen in Canada nearly as much as he is in the U.S., especially in the American North-east, but the presence of brands such as Polo, Brooks Brothers, Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica, Lacoste and Gant are testament to his influence.

Preppy tries to cultivate a sense of clean WASPy elitism-- and for the most part, it works. Just about every guy you know owns a Polo shirt, but the true Preppy brings it to a whole other level with his salmon-coloured pants, blazer-sweater-vest-tie combos and showing up at pick-up football games wearing all of the above.

In the past decade, Preppy has been the beneficiary of a sartorial windfall when the hip-hop guys started to get into preppy-chic, endowing the look a whole new modern twist.

Representatives: Carlton from the Fresh Prince, Pharrell Williams, Ralph Lauren (duh!), private school boys

6. Fancy Pants aka P.I.M.P.

This guy loves to dress as the toast of the town, the cat's meow, the bees knees--whatever gets attention. When he's with his tailor, he's like in a kid in the candy store, fascinated by all the bells and whistles available to pimp his clothing. Should he get a racing stripe on his shirt collar or maybe three lime-coloured stitched button-holes on his lapel, or maybe a paisley pattern on the underside of the cuff of his shirt? How about all of the above!?

He's perpetually overdressed in something bold and flashy, but then again, he has usually shelled out a lot of cash for his custom made suits and jackets, so why not? Velvet and silk are his forte--subtlety is not. To him, clothing isn't so much artistic expression as it is status.

Representatives: Robert Herjavec (from the Dragon's Den), Don Cherry, Diddy, High paid African-american athletes

7. The Sartorialist

Ah, the prince of men's couture. His legion has been growing steadily thanks to the explosion of street style fashion blogs inspired, of course, by the father of them all, the Sartorialist. Not to be confused with Fancy Pants, the Sartorialist accepts the Maimonidean ethic that once should embrace the truth from whatever the source and thus seeks to combine all the style elements of the men described above in order to satisfy his sartorial whim.

Indeed, he strives to look equally compelling in a t-shirt as he does in a 3-piece suit. He exudes pride over the fact that he has paired his luxurious Brunello Cucinelli jacket with a vintage pocket puff he obtained at thrift shop.

Some other random facts:

-He has been featured in four local street style blogs in the city in which he lives in.
-He is familiar with and can recite all the rules of men's fashion, and the circumstances under which they can be broken (so don't ever think about pointing out to him that his red belt doesn't match his two-tone shoes).
-He brings in his t-shirts to his tailor for alterations because they don't "fit right".
-If he is late for work, it is likely because he changed his outfit three times. And yes, his sweater is real cashmere, so there is no need to ask.

Representatives: Lapo Elkann, Gianni Agnelli, Andre 3000, Salesmen at Bergdorf Goodman

-The Scandal

Shirt Origami: Converting shirt into dress

2011-11-11T13:45:00.000-05:00

I have seen women using a man's shirt as a dress before but this clever video brings it to a whole new level. I would describe this as shirt origami.

Anatomy of da new Clubbing Shirt

2011-10-08T13:37:00.000-04:00

A tailor made shirt from a reputable tailor is definitely a worthwhile indulgence for any man. Not only should the shirt fit you much better than anything you can buy off the rack, but you can also specify certain subtle detailings that you also can't otherwise buy in a store.

One pitfall of custom shirts is that men often get too caught up in these extra features so that the shirt ends up looking like a gaudy, tacky mess.

Such details include double collars, extra buttons, epaulettes, gratuitous button holes, coloured stitching, non-matching patterns on the underside of the cuff and collar, just to name a few. Any one (or two) of these features alone might make the shirt more interesting if done in a subtle manner, but once you start piling up all the bells and whistles, the shirt begins to look a bit ridiculous.

In recent years, some brands, such as Armed Rebellion and Au Noir have begun manufacturing shirts with these extra finishings.

As you can see, these shirts are very, very loud. In fact, for many of them, I can't even see the shirt through all the extra buttons, stitching, flaps and patterns.

Expect to see one at a nightclub near you.

-The Scandal

Verses on Varsity

2011-09-27T20:59:00.000-04:00

There are few fashion items now hotter in menswear than varsity jackets. They are ubiquitous (which is a fancy way of saying they're everywhere).

Thankfully, this is one trend of which I approve.

Once relegated to varsity high school and college teams members such as Big Moose, the varsity jacket turned chic a few years ago as it made it's way into the lineup of several haute couture labels such as Bottega Veneta.

Do bear in mind that a Bottega veneta varsity jacket is something like the equivalent of Dom Perignon brand cola--yet strangely, it works.

I suspect that there are a few reasons why the jacket has taken off so successfully. Firstly, the style is attractive to hip-hop/street and hipster style sensibilities alike. The hip-hop guys like it because it appeals to both their team-like (posse) sensibilities as well their general affinity for sportswear, such as jerseys and ballcaps.

I suspect the hipster types are attracted to the ironic or nostalgic element evoked by the jackets. You won't see them wearing a Gucci varsity jacket, but you may very well see them in a jacket plucked from an obscure Iowa high school.

Personally, I think I am partial to the vintage jackets, and if you don't mind sifting through musty used clothing stores, you can probably score a pretty cool find.

-The Scandal

Rising hemlines

2011-09-15T13:07:00.001-04:00

I remember over a half decade ago my brother passed by a lineup of people waiting to get into a trendy nightclub in New York and referred to them as a bunch of "lemmings" as a result of the fact that they were all wearing trucker hats, which was then the costume de rigueur for that crowd.

I'm always a fan of checking out the galleries posted by GQ "street-style" photographer Tommy Ton, especially in and around fashion week. In his most recent gallery shot outside New York fashion week, I was struck at how uniform these supposed fashion renegades actually looked. There is some irony that their collective quest for individualism actually exposes a group-think mentality.

If there is one trend in particular that was nearly ubiquitous, it was the rising hemline in men's pants, be they dress pants, casual pants or jeans. Sometimes the pants were rolled up, sometimes not, but in almost every case, they "boldly" flouted the rules taught to us by generations of tailors and men's magazines.

So where did this trend come from? In reality, hemlines have been rising for years. Men's designer Thom Browne can definitely be credited with contributing to the trend. His extremely high-hemmed and shin-bearing pants have always been one his quirky trade-marks, and he's been mainstream for over five years now.

Another influence has been the particular cuff style favoured by uber-cool fashionistas in Milan and made famous by the Sartorialist. Here is a photo of one of the the Sartorialist's favourite middle-aged muse, Lino, owner of the Al Bazar men's boutique in Milan.

As you can see, the pants are cut a bit higher so that there is no "break" in the pants as you would see in a traditional hemline where the cuff hits the shoe. The cuff is also wider than a traditional men's cuff. This style is definitely more subtle that Thom Browne's, but it is definitely noticeable.

All of this is to say that rising hemlines have been in the air for some years now, and there are undoubtedly other sources for the trend, apart from the two I identified above.

So what's my opinion on trend? I've actually admired (and tried to emulate) the Milan cuff style for some time now, and I suppose the other styles shown above can be interesting if done properly, but I think the images above show that this style has all the hallmarks of a fad that one should with approach with some caution.

-The Scandal

Best Dressed City in Canada?

2011-09-09T15:50:00.001-04:00

Guess which Canadian was named Best Dressed by the September 2011 edition of GQ?

*drum roll*

Toronto.

That's gotta smart to many Montrealers who undoubtedly consider their city to be the most stylish and best dressed. Some Montrealers still cling to this dated stereotype that Hogtown is still a dull, whistle-while-you-work WASP-y city with little to offer other than a job at CIBC.

Montreal has historically, unquestionably been the style Capital of Canada, but times have changed. Toronto long ago surpassed Canada as the centre of finance and commerce, but it's only been in the last 20 years that Toronto has begun to surpass Toronto in artistic and cultural output and in particular, the world of style and design. Just witness the popularity of the Toronto International Film Festival, the construction of landmark public buildings (such as the ROM and opera house), the ascendancy of Toronto-based fashion designers, etc.

As an aside, the article recommends several Toronto clothing shops and restaurants which were obviously taken from an earlier travel article on Toronto from it's sister Conde Nast publication (which I also reported on).

-The a

Tweezers: The Good and the Bad

2011-09-08T11:27:00.001-04:00

Over the past two years, I have been noticing a trend on the runways; more specifically, on models. This fall season in particular, it has become all too apparent that thicker brows are back in style. Magazines and style sites have been promoting the darker and thicker brow to all fashionistas. I say: Finally! It's about time!!! My worst pet peeve when it comes to beauty has always been over-plucked brows. It actually sometimes saddens me to see how some girls literally butcher their brows to thin little lines that they pencil in (yuck). Even worse, permanently tattooed brows have become all too trendy for those who plucked everything out.

My brow obsession originated in my high school art class when I had a project due on drawing different eyes. As I began to draw and analyze what makes the eyes and the face symmetrical, I slowly realized that the brow had a big part to play in "framing" the face. As a result, I decided to compile a few examples as to why I think brows play such an important role and somehow are considered the most unessential part of the face.

In my opinion, aside from contouring the face, eyebrows that look natural and untouched give an appearance of freshness and youth.

In a Vogue interview, Natalia Vadianova credited her grandmother for keeping her from plucking her eyebrows when she was a teenager. As a result, many agents loved her unique look - especially her brows.

I mean, seriously, can we picture Brooke Shields in The Blue Lagoon with thin little brows? No, I didn't think so either.

I am not saying that brows should not be plucked at all. It is very important to groom them; but one should always know the limit or else.............

...you might end up looking like these clowns.

As for the males reading this post, just pluck out the uni brow BUT (and I mean it) don't try to give your brows an arch or a contour unless you are in the running to be on a Jersey Shore episode. You have no business devoting too much attention to that area on your face. Unless you want to resemble "Jake" down here.

- Marichka

Most Definitely Not Born That Way

2011-09-07T15:12:00.001-04:00

K, I really don't know anything about women's makeup or other beauty techniques. I can really only speak from a guy's common sense perspective.

As we all know, one cannot sift through the news without stumbling on some headline on ~~Lady Gag~~ Lady Gaga (and I do hate to add to the pile of stuff about her).

The latest headline: Lady Gaga in a photoshoot without makeup!

"Boy, this is gonna be juicy!", I thought.
Wrong.

The photo shoot depicts LGG looking more beautiful than ever.

Who knew that beneath her theatrical makeup, LGG actually had the features of a Nordic beauty?

Obviously, this is nonsense; Here are some images I googled of the Lady without makeup.

To be fair, these images are also deceptively atrocious, and I don't mean to pick on Gaga. I suspect that her her "true" appearance probably lies somewhere in the middle. However, I find the promise of a makeup-less photo shoot to be completely deceiving when the photographer uses other photographic technical wizardry to make the subject appear more beautiful than she is.

There is no point in shamelessly promoting a no-makeup photo shoot, only to enhance the photo through other techniques (such as unnatural poses, creative lighting, and airbrushing). The entire premise of a no-makeup shoot is to allow the viewer to get a more realistic perception of what the subject would look like in her natural condition. Sadly, this seems to be part of an unfortunate current trend within the publishing world.

Thou hast betrayed me for the last time, Judas.

-The Scandal

Ralph's Rave Reviews

2011-09-01T20:36:00.000-04:00

Ralph Lauren has launched its Black Label Denim campaign to include atrociously baggy jeans. Not even this model (who sports an uncanny resemblance Christian Bale) can pull it off. I really wonder what Ralph was thinking.

Maybe he was influenced by those absurd Raver pants from the 90's and early 2000's?

Unlikely.

That said, in recent years, YSL Rive Gauche has busted out some pretty baggy pants.

However, I can sooner see the aesthetic merit to loose fitting dress pants than I can with denim.

-The Scandal

Throwing Pitbull to the Dogs

2011-08-31T17:10:00.000-04:00

The rapper/hop hop artist Pittbull usually performs in either a suit and tie or at the very least, a blazer.

I cringe a bit most of the times I see him, but I don't know why. Maybe it's because he resembles Dr. Evil a bit too much.

Sure, there are a few things that I can point to, such as the poorly shaped Windsor tie knots, the stuffy vests, the ugly dark-on-dark shirt/suit combinations, but at the end of the day, I can't quite put my finger on what exactly it is about the way he dresses that makes Pitbull look so awkward in his suits.

He looks like that mail-room guy forced to wear a tie, or the 21 year old guy at the hotel front desk that just hasn't grown comfortable wearing his cheap suit and tie, or the Woodbridge kid wearing a poorly fitting suit for the first time at his high-school Prom. I thought the same thing about Eminem when he wore a suit during the Encore tour (ca. 2004).

While I give the guy credit for trying to add a touch of class to his often shabbily dressed craft, most of the times he misfires.

I suspect that part of the problem lies with the fact that a suit and tie is not the most appropriate attire for a hip-hop performance. Sure, it can work well for other musical genres such as jazz or big band, but for hip hop, a suit and tie comes off as overly formal and/or stuffy. If a suit is to be worn at all, it ought to be somewhat more theatrical than the businesslike attire favoured by Pitbull.

Time for Pitbull to put his suits to sleep.

-The Scandal

Smarty pants

2011-08-28T11:29:00.000-04:00

I bet you've never seen pants like this:

The photo is of South African golfer Gary Player, who wore these pants at the 1960 Open Championship to show his support for ending apartheid. Player stated the pants were ‘a quiet protest, of bringing white and black together".

Actually, I've previously commented on a pair of hideous Duckie Brown Pants that reminded me of Batman villain Two-Face's ensemble. Player's pants would've been perfect this Star Trek pair:

I'm typically a fan of two-tone clothing and accessories, whether they be dress shirts with white collars, or two tone shoes.

The pants however strike me as a little too bold. I certainly couldn't pull them off, but that doesn't mean there isn't someone who could.

-The Scandal

Faux-hawk Faux-pas

2011-08-24T22:55:00.001-04:00

I typically restrict all of my posts to the topic of men's style, particularly clothing. I never wanted this blog to be about say, some great sushi that I had last week, or a fascinating article I might've read in the paper about Indonesian currency policy. But this post is a bit off the beaten path.

I'm sure you're all familiar with the faux-hawk hairstyle, made famous by David Beckham at the 2002 World Cup. The haircut became wildly popular in the ensuing years to come, especially in Europe.

There are many variations on the style but essentially, the hairstyle is shorter (if not shaved) on the sides and thicker/fuller in the centre of the head.

Obviously, the word "faux-hawk" is a not-so-clever play on the word "Mohawk", implying that the hairstyle is a sort of false Mohawk.

I've begun to notice a disturbing trend of guys sporting fawx-hawks even though they're balding in the crown of their heads. These poor saps have no idea how foolish they look. If you're going to shave the side of your head and leave the middle part thicker, you will obviously draw attention to the centre portion of your head--and it better not be bald. Also, if you're balding, you're probably too old to be sporting a faux-hawk anyways.

I saw some putz at the gym guilty of this offence and I couldn't resist surreptitiously snapping a photo of him (although admittedly it isn't very clear). The sides of his head are actually shaved in a diamond pattern --this doesn't show up in the picture-- but you can clearly see that he is thinning in his crown. As Mr. T says: "I pity the fool!"

To me, this haircut is almost as bad as those bald guys who sport mullets as if to say "Ladies, I may be balding, but I can still grow a sexy mane of hair!ROARRR!"

I don't mean to pick on bald guys, just those who make poor choices. Pick up any men's magazine and they'll be chock full of suggestions of how best to style a balding head whether it's a receding hairline or a thinning crown.

-The Scandal

TED ED

2011-08-09T13:18:00.000-04:00

One of my favourite youtube channels is the TEDTalks channel. TED stands for Technology Entertainment and Design, and the conference offers the widest array of speakers one can possibly imagine. I myself have watched dozens of videos on a variety of topics, and have recommended numerous videos to friends and family.

Every once in a while, I'll stumble upon a video that has some relevance to this blog, so I figured I'd present a small list and description of those videos:

1. In one of my favourite videos, model and athlete Aimee Mullins describes how she uses prosthetic legs as sexy fashion and beauty accessories.

2. Designer Suzanne Lee discusses the uses of microbial cellulose as a fabric for garments.

3.Charming and likeable oddball Jessi Arrington describes how she creates her all outfits from used clothing stores.

-The Scandal

Praise the Lord and Pass the Ammunition

2011-08-03T00:11:00.000-04:00

Ever hate a piece of clothing so much that you just wanted to blast the thing to death with a shotgun? The truth is that for years designers have been shooting at clothes, except they have been using this as marketing gimmick to give their clothes the ultimate distressed look. In fact, there is even a patent for a method to distress a garment by shotgun.

The Canadian label Dutch Blonde (not to be confused with Von Dutch) offers simple but handsome men's t-shirts that have apparently been shot at with real bullets.

In fact, the t-shirt includes the actual (I assume) empty shell casing that was used to blast the garment.

My legions of fashion loving NRA members will correctly note that the casing is a .308 Winchester. I would've thought that the birdshot pattern of puncture holes could only have been made by a shotgun shell. Maybe some of my readers can illuminate me whether a .308 shell is capable of producing the scattershot pattern seen on the shirt.

The shirt itself fits quite nicely and I find the birdshot pattern to be rather interesting, although the retail price of $125 (CAD) is a bit steep. As for the brand itself, it seems that (based on their website) Dutch Blonde focuses mainly on women's clothing, most of it having little to do with bullet holes.

-The Scandal

Review of online luxury retailer Luisviaroma

2011-07-29T22:29:00.004-04:00

I finally ordered an item and received successful delivery from the online luxury clothing retailer, Luisviaroma.

Luisviaroma offers a variety of extremely fashion forward brands that you would be hard pressed to find in Canada, such as Gareth Pugh and Rick Owens. Of course, it also features more mainstream designer brands such as Burberry, Dolce, Lanvin, etc.

The site is so fashion forward that I entertain myself by browsing through the selection of weird and wacky stuff that you simply will never see trickling down to the major North American retailers of designer clothing.

In fact, the site is among such an extreme fashion vanguard that it actually has a "Legging" and "Skirt" categories in the Men's section! Although I myself am unlikely to order male leggings or skirt any time soon, this site is far, far more interesting than a luxury site such as bluefly, which offers the blandest and most pedestrian selection of designer clothing.

Overall, I find the site to be very easy to browse and user-friendly. I also like the way the site intelligently spies on my ISP address to deduce my country of origin and automatically quotes me prices in Canadian dollars. The prices aren't terribly cheap, but there are some deals to be had, especially during sale season.

As for the order, I experienced a small amount of delight when my order (a pair of shoes) arrived (from

Italy

) relatively quickly (under a week) and was also very handsomely wrapped in a bow and Crêpe paper. It's definitely a nice way to add a touch of elegance to the otherwise faceless online shopping experience.

-The Scandal

Blade Runner: Analysis of Rachael the Replicant

2011-07-29T01:19:00.000-04:00

I've recently had the opportunity to watch a famous cult classic film entitled Blade Runner for one of my classes. I was pleasantly taken aback by the great costumes designed for the film. My favorite character was Rachael who was played by Sean Young before her days of boozing rants. I had to do a small presentation based on Sean Young's (Rachael's) appearance in this movie, so for those of you who are either familiar with the film or have read the book, here it is:

Blade Runner is a science fiction film directed by Ridley Scott based on Philip K, Dick’s novel entitled Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep. The movie as the book can be read as a critique on contemporary society. This critique displays the future direction human society could take due to corporate dominance, disregard for environment, and lack of empathy for humanity. The film was released in over one thousand theatres in 1982; however, the opening was quite disappointing. The critics were at odds regarding their opinions upon the film’s release claiming that it was a rather slow and cliché adventure film; but others predicted that it would stand the test of time because of its complexity, and multi-layered meaning. While the film was not initially a success with North American audiences, it became popular internationally and subsequently a cult classic. The film’s dark futuristic film noir style has influenced many science fiction films and to this day and still continues to influence modern trends.

The synopsis of the story is about a group of four replicants or “androids” who escape from Mars in order to find a solution to prolonging their four year life span. Tyrell is the genetic genius and the head of a giant corporation who designed these replicants. He had given them a short life span as a fail-save device that serves as protection against their increasing desire for developing human emotions. Replicants are forbidden to be on earth because of their potential of becoming too human thus a special unit force also known as Blade Runners is established to hunt down replicant renegades. Blade Runners use the Voight-Kampf test to distinguish replicants from the rest of the human population by checking if they can pass an empathy test. The most experienced Blade Runner, Deckard, played by Harrison Ford is hired to investigate and kill (or retire) the four escaped replicants. During his investigation at the Tyrell Corporation, he conducts a Vogt-Kampff test on an experimental replicant model named Rachael, who not only does not know she’s a replicant, but has also been programmed with memories from a non-existent childhood. After discovering the truth about her true identity, Rachael flees the Tyrell Corporation and begins a romantic relationship with Deckard. Rachael’s discovery that she is a replicant paradoxically inspires her transformation from Tyrell’s robotic ‘human’ niece to a more liberated and even humane character. Her transformation can be charted through her appearance in different scenes. I will analyse the changes in her wardrobe and make-up and argue that they reflect Rachael’s increasing self-awareness about her true identity.

In the beginning of the movie Rachael is introduced to us as the niece of one of the richest men responsible for manufacturing replicants. Being involved in her uncle’s company she is aware that replicants are products and objects. However, once she starts to suspect she is not a human as she previously thought, but a replicant, her identity slowly starts to change.

Rachael is presented to us as a mysterious and a seductive woman. She walks towards Deckard in a calculated stiffness, with her hand in her pocket, she introduces herself, sits down, and lights up a cigarette. In this particular moment she is very reminiscent of a stereotypical femme fatale type of character. As she holds the cigarette in between her long immaculately well polished fingers she transforms into a popular film noir actress. What is important to note in this image is how assuredly and gently she smiles at Deckard before she takes the test.

She is presented as a cliché 1940’s movie star rather than someone with a unique identity which can be analysed though her appearance. Her hair is carefully styled and pinned up similar to that of a film noir actress. Her make-up, including her lipstick is meticulously and perfectly applied. She is dressed in a two piece black suite: a tight black pencil skirt and a well-tailored buttoned up jacket with high shoulder pads. She presents herself in rather formal and stiff attire which is accentuated by the small tie on her neck.

As Rachael’s suspicion about her identity progresses she decides to escape and go against her creator Tyrell, going as far as shooting another replicant to save Deckard’s life. She is in a state of uncertainty about her future and seems distraught. It is quite evident that Rachael is no longer the perfect specimen we encountered in the first scene. She is taking on traits that are more human because she is becoming less perfect in her appearance as opposed to well composed and formally attired. In this scene she is still wearing the pencil skirt and the well-tailored buttoned up suit jacket; however, now we notice that the small tie around her neck has all of a sudden become loose and her eye make-up is running down her face. The colour of her suit is different in this scene - now it is grey instead of black. The lighter colour may suggest a progression to a more informal state. She is no longer the formal well-composed Rachael we first encountered as her appearance is slowly starting to change.

Eventually Rachael’s appearance takes a dramatic turn. She is not longer wearing the high powered formal suit jacket as in the last two scenes. Here, she is in light loose -fitting unbuttoned silk shirt playing the piano. The colour of her wardrobe has now changed to white. She methodically puts down her hair in an awkward gesture. Her trademark scarlet red lipstick is gone and her smudged eyeliner disappears. She seems to be more natural in her appearance. This scene ironically suggests that when she comes to fully accept that she is a replicant she becomes more human and less perfect. She finally accepts who she is and she seems to be more vulnerable and scared. Her face is more child-like as opposed to the femme fatale which was presented to us in the first scene.

The theme of the film is based on the nature of humanity and what it means to be a human. It is therefore important to note in the film the change which occurs within Rachael. By closely analysing her shift in style and aesthetic appearance it is quite evident that her physical appearance changes in parallel with her change in her self-awareness. In the beginning when she identifies herself as a human her attire and gestures are stiff and calculated, almost reminiscent of a robot. However, as she learns that she is no longer a human but a replicant she in turn becomes more humane and falls in love with Deckard. Ridley Scott was able to establish a certain sense of irony whereby replicants upon their discovery of their android identity, became more human. Perhaps he wanted to reflect the way current society has become desensitized within the corporate establishment. The presentation of human beings in the movie suggests that they lack empathy. Their drive for destruction and corporate monopoly ultimately creates a society that is caught in a polluted and depressing environment as opposed to the replicants who desire to live and love.

-Mariya

2 pieces, 2 thoughts

2011-07-25T18:54:00.000-04:00

After my last posting on men's swimwear, I was asked to do a posting on women's swimwear. Mariya and I generally keep a church-state separation of men's and women's fashion. That is, I stick to menswear (with a few exceptions), and she, womenswear. The reason for this is pretty simple: I don't now much about women's clothing. But I guess today is another exception, so, bottom line (pun intended), I'll share some quick thoughts:

Non-matching bikini

I've made my position on matching clear, but I should have carved out an exception for bikinis.

When I see a girl wearing a bikini top that does not match her bottom, it looks like she either lost half of it under the bed, or that she decided to spontaneously strip down to her bra and panties and jump in the pool. And while I'm all in favour of a girl deciding to act on such a whim, she should probably keep a (matching) bathing suit in her purse should she feel such an urge.

Seriously, a non-matching bikini looks like underwear, not swimwear. Just like a pair of socks, if you've lost one half, you should probably only use the other half to wash the car.

One-piece suits

Unikinis or monokinis, or whatever silly word you want to use to refer to these bathing suits, look great on the runway.

The problem is that in real life, the fabric "bridge" in the mid-section gets displaced and all puckered up. That's why figure skating outfits that appear to show skin are actually covered with see-through nylon.

-The Scandal

Need no Speedo

2011-07-21T15:04:00.001-04:00

In this blog, I often discuss how high end fashion designers appear to be somewhat out of synch with the needs of many stylish men. A classic example of this is the constant roll-out of the skimpy Speedo-style bathing suit. Yet, they're pretty much staples for brands such as DSquared.

I really don't know any North American man who'd be comfortable in it, or alternatively, any woman who'd feel comfortable talking to a guy wearing one-- or any other similar monstrosity.

Another favorite party trick of designers is to dress up the Speedo in a completely unrealistic outfit.

Call me old-school, but I'd say if you are going to wear a Speedo, do leave the topcoat, silk scarf, and monocle at home.

I don't mean to suggest that men ought to wear over-sized knee length shorts,

but there does seem to be a smart middle ground that can appeal to the style-conscious water frolicker.

-The Scandal

Accost Lacoste

2011-07-16T12:31:00.000-04:00

I really can't wrap my head around this Lacoste advertising campaign:

If Lacoste is going for some kind of avant-garde look, it's terribly misguided, especially since as far as I know the slick tuxedo is not a Lacoste product. I've actually sometimes seen guys slip a t-shirt over over a long-sleeve sweater or shirt thinking that the reversal of layers is in some way stylish simply because it's unconventional. It just looks asinine to me.

Upon further reflection, maybe the image is supposed to convey the message that a man wearing a Lacoste polo shirt will feel just as luxurious and formal as he would wearing a tuxedo. By analogy, we've seen car ads that imply that the family sedan is really a race car in disguise. If this is the case, the ad makes a bit more sense, but it seems to me that an ad's message should be more immediate and intuitive.
Only a fashion blogger would waste time pondering and deconstructing the deeper meaning.

-The Scandal

Mind games, Head Wear

2011-07-12T01:31:00.000-04:00

While I was recently browsing through the latest John "I love Hitler" Galliano show, I was struck by some of the tall, rounded and feathered hats that some of the models were wearing.

I'm afraid I'll have to admit that (after a bit of web research) I'm still not quite sure what this hat style is called. Maybe it's some form of modified Quaker hat. Whenever I see it, I am reminded of the hat worn by the great American poet Walt Whitman.

I was drawn to the hats in the Galliano show not only because I thought they were striking, but also because I had recently been admiring John Lennon's getup in his "Mind Games" video.

In the posthumously created video, Lennon walks around New York City, especially Central Park, and engages in what appears to be authentic and affectionate interaction with his fans. The clip portrays Lennon in a rather charming light, which only makes his senseless murder all the more tragic.

But let's get back to the clothes. Lennon, so legendary in almost every other facet, is definitely underrated as a style icon. Lennon's style in this video perfectly expresses his artistic and political persona. The dark coat and turtleneck assign him the maturity that he was starting to assume in his post-hippie days, and his trade-mark rounded sunglasses give him a bit of rockstar glamour. But what really makes the outfit is his feathered hat, which gives him a fantastic bohemian flair.

There are other bohemian icons who have worn a hat in a similar manner. Bob Dylan and Johnny Depp come to mind (although Depp is wearing a wide-brimmed fedora, just in a somewhat conventional manner).

I suppose if you want to be the voice of your generation (as poet, singer or actor), you will probably need an impressive piece of headwear.

-The Scandal

Worst looks of Milan/Paris Spring/Summer 2012

2011-06-27T22:41:00.001-04:00

1. Yohji Yamamoto

Apparently, the latest Japanese fashion craze is to take a Mick Fleetwood lookalike

and put him in a skirt and a skin tight t-shirt:

2. Junya Watanabe

The only improvements that country hick Cletus from "The Simpsons" needed to be runway-ready was some Geddy Lee hair and a fishing hat.

3. Rick Owens

Q: Where does this model come from?

A: From the planet Talus IV (cue Star Trek theme song).

Maybe Rick is buds with Captain Pike?

4. Jill Sander

No woman can resist a man with greasy hair, pale legs and navel-high Bermuda shorts.

5. John Galliano

Disturbing arithmetic:

Angus Young from AC/DC

Simon from The Chipmunks

6. Ann Demeulemeester

Forget not wearing white after labour day or matching your belt with your shoes; The one cardinal men's fashion rule: never show your nipples!

7. Yohji Yamamoto

One tragic symptom of Alzheimer's is that the patient may be confused and put on his wife's clothes.

8. Commes des Garcons

These guys look a bit, umm, crabby.

9. Yohji Yamamoto

"If you like my collar, then you're gonna love this guy's collar!"

10. Rick Owens

How do you convince a model to walk down the runway wearing something ridiculous?
Blindfold him.

11. Moncler Gamme Bleu

If you want to be the biggest badass in to the locker room, you know you're gonna need to sport a jockstrap with a Prince of Wales pattern.

12. Thom Browne

Only a true genius such as Thom Browne can take inspiration from everyday items such as string curtains and lamp shades

and create sensible and wearable outfits for the modern man such as these masterpieces:

All images from GQ.com, copyright Conde Nast

-The Scandal

Corneliani Spring/Summer 2010/2011

2011-06-26T11:06:00.000-04:00

It is the goal of every sartorially-inspired man to project an air of casual insouciance ("Don't try so hard"). This Corneliani show pulls that off to a T.
Viva italia.

All images from GQ.com, copyright Conde Nast

-The Scandal

Dsquared² Men's Spring/Summer 2012,

2011-06-26T10:32:00.000-04:00

Like those evolutionary ladders of walking man-monkeys, Dsquared² shows increasingly seem to follow the progression and scope of Ralph Lauren which start with outdoorsy/sports wear, make their way up to WASP prep and then finally onto Saville Row ritz. Of course, Dsquared² do not have the countless labels that Ralph has under his name (RLL, Polo, Black label, Purple label, etc.), but there does appear to be a similar sensibility.

All images from GQ.com, copyright Conde Nast

-The Scandal

Versace men's Spring/Summer 2012

2011-06-26T09:51:00.000-04:00

Prints are everywhere on the runway this season--shirts, pants, hats, shoes, etc. If you ask Donatella Versace, she'll say they never went out of style. Other than the label's trade-mark silky baroque prints, this season showcased plunging kung-fu necklines, brightly coloured sandals, and lotsa buckles.

All images, GQ.com, copyright Conde Nast

-The Scandal

Ermenegildo Zegna and Canali men's Spring/Summer 2012

2011-06-22T17:51:00.000-04:00

There was considerable overlap between the Canali and Ermenegildo Zegna shows, which makes sense since the two are among the finest Italian tailoring houses-- both known primarily for their dapper business suits. Each label highlighted softly-structured suits in unconventional-for-business, pastel colours.

There some differences too; whereas Zegna opted for a minimalist, futurist look for some of its pieces, Canali was a bit trippier with Eastern and Bollywood-inspired themes.

Zegna

Canali

All images from GQ.com; copyright Conde Nast

-The Scandal

Emporio Armani Men's Spring/summer 2012

2011-06-22T17:16:00.000-04:00

Armani always has the coolest leather jackets. And some of the other stuff isn't bad either.

All images from GQ.com, copyright Conde Nast
-The Scandal

Dirk Bikkembergs Spring/summer 2012

2011-06-21T19:43:00.000-04:00

I'll do this by way of internet meme:

1. "I don't often often wear an open shirt, but when I do, I manage to look neither sleazy nor douchey"

2. "I don't often wear green and pink, but when I do, it doesn't look nearly as fruity as one might think."

-The Scandal

D & G men's Spring/Summer 2012 - That 90's show?

2011-06-21T13:15:00.000-04:00

When I clicked on the D&G show, I really wasn't expecting an array of paisley and baroque, Versace-like patterns adorned in every which way on everything from shirts, pants, shoes and hats. But there ya go.

All images copyright GQ.com/Conde Nast

-The Scandal

Salvatore Ferragamo Men's Spring/Summer 2012

2011-06-20T13:51:00.002-04:00

Ever walk by a some poor schlub in the summer wearing a dark wool suit, and simply cringe upon thinking how hot and uncomfortable he must be? It's therefore refreshing to see a spring/summer collection that's actually weather-appropriate. Although by no means unique (e.g., YSL), the Ferragamo design team expand the typical male silhouette, but not to absurd proportions (e.g., Junya Watanabe). The collection has a very "organic" feel to it, with an array of light earth tones, and loose woven fabrics, all the way down to the Huckleberry Finn-ish straw hat.
Mint julep, anyone?

All images copyright GQ.com/Conde Nast

-The Scandal

Roberto Cavalli Men's Spring/Summer 2012

2011-06-20T13:09:00.000-04:00

With a few exceptions, I am not finding much inspiration in Milan this season. This RC collection was not particularly avant-garde (nor was it expected to be), but it did deliver the usual glamorous opulence that one can expect from RC, albeit with a bit more simplicity this time around.

-The Scandal

Tommy terrific

2011-06-17T09:55:00.000-04:00

Taking a page out of the Sartorlialist's playbook, GQ photographer Tommy Ton posts fantastic galleries of some of the most inspirational men's dressers in the world. The pictures are usually snapped outside one fashion event or another.

*All images copyright Tommy Ton and/or GQ (Conde Nast)

The most recent gallery is from Pitti Umo in Milan. I really urge you to browse.

-The Scandal

MK = ?

2011-06-17T00:34:00.001-04:00

I grew up in Montreal. I also grew up eating kosher. The main local certifier of kosher food in the city is by the Jewish Community Council of Montreal ("Va'ad hair") who label products that meet their kashrut standards with an MK.

If you live in Canada, you may notice the MK symbol on the back of many food product labels (COR is also another popular Canadian kosher certification).

How is this in any way relevant to a style blog, you ask? Well in the past years, I've increasingly noticed many young women wearing accessories adorned with this same symbol, especially shoes and handbags.

I'll bet you're thinking these are simply Michael Kors products, but I'm not so sure. We've seen orthodox Judaism fashion before, so maybe this is yet another instance??

Or maybe not.

P.s. My all time favourite--and smartly dressed kosher symbol-- is from Calgary:

-The Scandal

Weirdest Mannequin Ever

2011-04-23T13:57:00.000-04:00

I was shopping in the Cours Mont-Royal shopping centre in downtown Montreal when I noticed a truly odd mannequin in the window of a boutique.

The mannequin looks like the bald guy from Tenacious D (Kyle Gass)

I'm not actually sure what the boutique is called.

-The Scandal

Mad Max Beyond Collarbone

2011-03-13T23:49:00.002-04:00

I couldn't help but notice Mel Gibson's gaudy shirt collar display at his recent Court appearance.

There has always been a special hatred in my heart when a dress shirt collar is spread outside a suit jacket (or blazer). Unlike most other fashion rules, there is no compromise or exceptions to this one--it always looks awful.

I'm not quite sure where this style originated, but based on my (unscientific) research, it appears as if long, open, pointed collars originated in the 1920's. I have seen the style referred to as the "Barrymore collar",
apparently after it was made famous by the actor John Barrymore (1882-1942), shown below.

My own opinion is that the style has its most direct origins in zoot suit fashions in the 40's, which lingered into gangster clothing culture, even unto this day, in some form or another.

I submit that the most famous proponents of this collar style in the 50's--Elvis and Jerry Lee Lewis--owe their sartorial origins to zoot suit culture.

Needless to say, the "Barrymore collar", has become most widely associated with the 70's era when it became mainstream. Eccch.

As a curiosity, this style existed in Israel well into the 90's for formal occasions. As a Westerner, this always appeared funny to me, and people I knew explained it as a strange relic from the 70's. But, as I pointed out above, the collar style had existed before. I actually think that the Israeli collar resulted from its adoption by Zionist elders in the 50's.

David Ben Gurion

Unfortunately, like an unwanted weed, the collar still seems to crop up every once in a while. Mr. Miyagi wore it in the Karate Kid (1985); but a lot of older men become sartorial time capsules, in this case, from the 1970's.

I don't quite know why Pacino wore it in Scarface since the storyline takes place well into the early 1980's.

I suppose Tony Montana is getting his style cues from both gangster culture and Studio 54, both of which embrace the Barrymore collar.

I was aghast to see the collar in a Ralph Lauren show on a couple models a few seasons ago, but thankfully, it otherwise very rarely appears on the runway or in mainstream designer collections. If you wear a suit jacket/blazer without a tie, the collar should always be worn inside the jacket, preferably with a high stiff collar. I mean, would you rather look like him

or him

?

-The Scandal

Snipes snippet: Part 2

2011-01-31T11:22:00.001-05:00

Last month, I commented on a very unique collar being worn Wesley Snipes. Here is is the picture once again.

My friend and bespoke tailor Marlon Durrant commented that he had seen a similar collar frequently being worn by the British tailor and fashion designer Ozwald Boateng.

I would be surprised indeed if Snipes' shirt wasn't in some way related or influenced by Boateng.
One final comment: The angle of his collar reminds me a of a cutaway

or "extreme" cutaway collar.

-The Scandal

Elie Saab Spring 2011 Couture

2011-01-26T22:03:00.000-05:00

Alright, I am going to say it: Elie Saab is the BEST Couturier designer since the great Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino; and whoever disagrees with me can whine about it on their own blog! After watching yet another-- how can I say this lightly--orgasmic show, my fashion juices were yet again reinvigorated. I absolutely loved every single one of his pieces!!! The workmanship, design, pattern, colour were so well put together. He truly is a fashion genius in every sense of the word. Here are a few outfits which I thought were exceptional. Hope you enjoy as much as I did.

-Mariya

Worst of Milan/Paris Fall/Winter 2012

2011-01-26T19:54:00.001-05:00

1. Yohji Yamamoto

Whatever happened to that old bald guy from Benny Hill?

It looks like he got a job modelling oversized rags for Yohji Yamamoto.

And Dom DeLuise?

He was there too.

2. Givenchi

Hey look! It's Skeletor! And his clothes are pretty awful.

3. Jean Paul Gaultier

A man with a garter, even if he is carrying a gun...

...reminds me of Dr. Frank N Furter from the Rocky Horror Picture Show. Truly Horrific.

4. John Galliano

Is that supposed to be Spanx for men?

No spanx; especially if you're wearing a used condom on your head.

5. Junya Watanabe

More lookalikes: This guy reminds me of Conan O'brien with a mustache. I'm not sure what's worse-- the suit or the mustache.

7. Rick Owens

This guy reminded me of toilet paper roll.

His buddy looked equally absurd:

8. Adam Kimmel

I don't wanna know how this guy got his hairy palms.

By the way, this was one of the worst collections I have ever seen. At least some of the really wacky shows, such as Thom Browne, provoke thought, or have some elusive artistic merit. But this was just awful and uninteresting.

9. Thom Browne

TB gives me T.B.

10. Prada

Aside from the shoes, I wish more people were aware of the silliness of the better part of the Prada menswear collection. Some lowlights:

-Shiny Green unhappy people?

-Worst golf shirt ever?

-Charlie Brown-inspired 70's polyester sweats?

-The Scandal

Ermenegildo Zegna, Fall/Winter 2012 Men's collection

2011-01-25T23:58:00.000-05:00

With an excellent reputation for smartly-dressed businessmen, this Zegna show was definitely a little "out there"--but that's OK. The most interesting quirk were the collars on the dress shirts. As you can see below, the collars are rounded, with a tab button. In fact, the tabs were often presented unbuttoned, either in the spirit of sartorial nonchalance or maybe to simply be more obvious to the viewer as to what they were.

Another odd accessory, worn at the waist, was a cross between a Batman-like utility belt and a money belt.

-The Scandal

Louis Vuitton, Fall/Winter 2012 Men's collection

2011-01-25T23:41:00.000-05:00

The colours were definitely dark with a sprinkling of bright red/orange. But like this season's Lanvin collection, the show was marked by the use of more geometric and tailored garments. I guess the soft stuff is out.

-The Scandal

Lanvin Fall/Winter 2012 Men's collection

2011-01-24T18:59:00.000-05:00

This show was a definite shift in directions for Lanvin. The brand had previously been known for soft colour tones and delicate fabrics worn loosely. This latest collection is a lot more angular-looking and sharply tailored. There also appears to be more extensive use of man-made materials, such as that foamy stuff favoured by Calvin Klein.

-The Scandal

Gucci and Roberto Cavalli, Fall/Winter 2012

2011-01-20T21:49:00.000-05:00

I've never lumped two fashion shows together on this blog, but maybe I should start doing it some more. Both Gucci and Cavalli share common features, most notably the renewed interested in the 70's vibe (colour tones, flared pants, peaked lapels, etc.), so I figured that i may as well hit two birds here.

Most Gucci men's clothing is actually pretty plain-looking, but there are always a few really ostentatious showpiece items that few men could pull off. Just about every Cavalli garment is ostentatious, but that doesn't mean it's not tasteful or appealing. The Cavalli stuff I've collected below is pretty stunning especially the navy tuxedo.

Roberto Cavalli

Gucci

-The Scandal

Salvatore Ferragamo, Fall/Winter 2012 Men's collection

2011-01-19T19:20:00.001-05:00

So far, this is my favorite collection this season. Maybe it's because the lighter beiges tones look so elegant together (but then again, there are some unconventional colours too, such as plum and oatmeal teal).

Or maybe it's because the jackets are perfectly fitted

Actually, I think it's because the guys are wearing their fedoras so sharply.

I cant stand dorky trilbys (short brimmed fedoras), especially when tilted up:

-The Scandal

Alexander Mcqueen, Fall/Winter 2012 Men's collection

2011-01-19T19:04:00.000-05:00

The past few seasons of McQueen have featured eccentric looks that were totally lost on me. That's why I was surprised this season to see a more a much bolder rock n' roll style aesthetic that reminded me a bit of Gucci and Burberry. These are the perfect coats for the rock star or vampire, or even better, the rockstar who also happens to be vampire.

-The Scandal

Corneliani, Fall/Winter 2012 Men's

2011-01-19T18:57:00.000-05:00

In case you think winter collections must be all dark, take a look at this collection. I really love the simple classic colour schemes, especially the way the flannel grey tones complements the beige tones. The guy in the white suit maybe be pushing it for winterwear, but hey, when you look that good, why not?

-The Scandal

Canali Fall/Winter 2012

2011-01-19T18:49:00.000-05:00

These guy looks really dapper. Unfortunately, as I've commented before, the edgier Canali looks rarely make it through to stores such as Harry Rosen. It's usually just a sea of grey and navy. Ditto for brands such as Zegna. I've cherry picked some of the more interesting ensembles.

-The Scandal

Bottega Veneta, Fall/Winter 2012

2011-01-19T18:40:00.000-05:00

Despite the luxury of the Bottega Veneta brand, the clothes are always presented with a certain nonchalance that I find appealing (e.g jackets half zipped, buttons undone, etc.)

-The Scandal

D&G Fall/Winter 2012

2011-01-18T19:03:00.000-05:00

Are there any brands more American than Coca-Cola and Mickey Mouse?? Ok, maybe Facebook and Apple, Google...Well, anyways, in the 1950's, there weren't. This collection was an obvious homage to classic Americana, especially with the preppy, "Polo" layers of colour.

The sunglasses and earphones gave the look a bit of an 80's new-wave vibe. Isn't this how the cool kids in all those 80's movies dressed (remember Stiles from Teen Wolf?)?

D&G-- being the junior Dolce and Gabbana label-- definitely succeeded in providing a new direction for the brand with this whimsy collection .

-The Scandal

Burberry Prorsum, Fall/Winter 2012

2011-01-18T18:38:00.000-05:00

Considering Burberry's Christopher Bailey is one of my favorite designers, I was a bit nonplussed with this collection (however, it did give me the opportunity to use the word "nonplussed" for the first time ever).

This collection was all about coats, and it was hard to tell what was happening underneath, if anything. A lot of them were downright wierd

but there were some coats and accessories that made it worthwhile:

-The Scandal

Dsquared² Fall/Winter 2012

2011-01-18T18:30:00.000-05:00

Well, if there was any doubt that Johnny Depp is a style icon,

D Squared 's most recent collection trotted out a series of models wearing Depp's trade-mark fedora and glasses. Go Johnny Go.

Oh yeah--there were some nicely tailored overcoats and interesting riding gauntlets (to bring out your inner General Custard).

-The Scandal

Dolce & Gabbana, Fall/Winter 2012

2011-01-18T18:19:00.001-05:00

This was a bit of eccentric collection as far as these guys go, brought to you by the colours grey and red.

Although there was a hodgepodge of styles, there were a few consistent details that I found disconcerting such as lack of a tie (never dug the Forrest Gump vibe), short jackets, and ill-fitting pants with no seat.

There was also the usual display of razzle dazzle tuxedos,

but given the clunky shoes,

skinny suspenders, plaids, trilby hats, etc., the collection had a more hipster than Hollywood feel.

-The Scandal

Superstar blogger

2011-01-07T12:59:00.000-05:00

I enjoyed watching this short behind-the-scenes film clip profiling how superstar fashion blogger Scott Schuman (aka the Sartorialist) employs his craft on a day-to day-basis.

Scott's revolutionary idea was to snap photos of "regular" (but stylish) people on the street and post them on his blog in a simple, but elegant manner. This success of his innovation demonstrated the power and influence of blogs (and bloggers), as well as their advantages over traditional fashion media, at least in certain aspects. It is no surprise that almost all traditional media websites (e.g. GQ.com) now not only have a blog section, but a streetfashion section as well.

Schuman really is the Wayne Gretzky of fashion bloggers, and was undoubtedly the inspiration for countless other fashion blogs, including this one.

One of my favorite moments in the clip occurs at 2:40 where Scott solicits a woman for a photograph and the woman gives him a cool reception until she learns that he is the Sartorialist. I dunno, it kinda struck me as funny because the woman probably tells her friends that she is a "huge" fan of the site, yet she didn't even recognise Scott, who has been profiled countless of times in many media outlets.

-The Scandal

Snipes snippet

2010-12-21T02:25:00.000-05:00

Wesley Snipes has been in the news recently because he's going to jail for refusing to pay his taxes. I recently stumbled upon a picture of him wearing a dress shirt with a really interesting and unique collar. I have never seen anything quite like it.

I have no doubt that the shirt is tailor-made. In my opinion, unless you have particular measurements such that you cannot buy off-the-rack, the only rationale to get a tailor-made shirt is to create something you can't buy in stores; And Snipes' shirt is a perfect example.

I'm all of in favour of personalizing a tailor-made shirt with quirky but subtle details, but I find that men of a certain generation have had a tendency to garnish their shirts with over-the-top details (such as garish racing stripes on the collar). However, what I like about Snipes' collar is that it has a very interesting geometric look to it, yet is not gaudy.

If you like the collar, you'll likely to have see a tailor. My man Marlon Durrant is one such tailor who can definitely pull it off.

-The Scandal

Fashionistus sancti

2010-12-10T13:57:00.000-05:00

A few years ago, while searching for Gregorian chants, I chanced upon a very peculiar, but entertaining Gregorian chant that is unlikely to have ever been sung in a church. The song is composed in the typical style of a Gregorian chat (vocal music only, no instruments) but the lyrics are the names of European designer fashion labels. It's quite humorous actually, and a nice melody to boot.

As the grains of sands passed, I eventually lost the song, but recently grew curious and decided to retrieve it from the internet once again. I figured it would be pretty easy to find. It wasn't. I recalled the name of the band was Waldorf, and the song was called "Fashionista".

But after much googling, all I was able to come up with was a techno version of the song, which didn't appeal to me at all. You can get a taste of the techno version:

Finally, after much googling I eventually stumbled upon the version of the song I was searching for. Apparently, the group, which formed in Italy in the 90's, had recorded several versions of the song. You can read more about them here. The version I was looking for was called "fashionistus sakral choir" and I urge you to listen to it. Enjoy!

	Waldorf - Fashionistus Sakral Choir (Int .mp3

	Found at bee mp3 search engine

-The Scandal

Invisible artist

2010-12-05T12:49:00.001-05:00

Is fashion art? In brief, I say no. Admittedly, I do not have sufficient --Ok, I don't have ANY-- expertise in art history or philosophy to justify my response. But even if I did, ya probably wouldn't want to read it...

Anyways, in my opinion, one of the primary purposes of art is to provoke thought and to allow us to view the world in a new and different perspective. Fashion on the other hand is influenced by more pragmatic considerations--it is clothing after all, that needs to cover our body. But more than that, I believe that the primary goal of fashion is to achieve a pleasing aesthetic effect, or put simply: to look good.

Needless to say, like any other field of design (e.g. architecture, interior design, etc.) the fashion world certainly has an artistic component to it, but it is not in of itself, art.

There is a spectrum of course where some clothing is so devoid of practical and aesthetic value it is clearly meant to be art. A lot of designers intend their runway shows to be an artistic experience and come up with some pretty whack stuff. I don't think it can taken as anything other than art.

Galliano

Thom Browne

I would put Lady Gaga's outfits in the same category. That's one of the reasons why I resent Vanity Fair placing her on its Best Dressed list. I don't think her clothing is fashion so much as it is (bad) art.

I recently came across a Chinese artist named Liu Bolin who photographs himself upon having painted his clothing in a chameleon like-manner so that he completely blends in to his surroundings. Some of the photos are amazing. It looks like there is a ghost in the image. See if you can find Waldo in these images:

And my personal favorite:

Pretty amazing stuff, huh?

I'm not quite sure what this has to do with fashion--it clearly belongs more to the realm of art. However, I wouldn't be surprised if some fashion designer is influenced by this art form and incorporates some of these elements into his or her next collection.

-The Scandal